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Smith Rock Group Traverse
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British A0+ X
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in (5) Southern Tip
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9999 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Amelia Dearheart S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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I'm Your Hate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just the Tip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kunza Korner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sabotage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Smith Rock Group Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0+ X |
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South Park S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stögerific S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Taylor Brook TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wave of Bliss T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Yoder Eaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yoderific S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Grade IV |
| FA: | Bryan Starick and Zack Wentz |
| Page Views: | 2,149 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Zack Wentz on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Quite the adventurous day out in some desert alpine-style climbing on one of Smith's most photogenic features!
Start as for Vulture Ridge (5.6 X) by approaching the back side of the southern tip area and follow the first gully on the right. Climb this gully to the ridge (2 pitches, 5.6 X).
Once on the ridge, use 4th class terrain management techniques (it's SUPER exposed on the right side of the ridge) to traverse up and down through the spires until you reach Vulture Gully. Once at a prominent spire within sight of Vulture Gully, rappel off a large horn to a dirty ledge approx. 2/3 of the way off the ground from upper Vulture Gully. **Note: Be extremely mindful from here on out about rockfall as anything you pull off may cascade into parties below you at the base of the Phoenix crags.**
Once on the ledge, traverse across the ledge until reaching the final gully that leads back up to the ridge (many options here, we went for the final gully on the ledge system). In this gully, climb a decent face to the right, then traverse left into a steep bulge move on horrendous rock (5.9+ X). When pulling this bulge, you will arrive atop Vulture Ridge again. 3rd class from here around the remainder of the ridge.
Reach the base of the west tower for Smith Summit by hiking around to the base. Follow the route West Tower (5.4 A1) to a 2-bolt anchor. Belaying from this 2-bolt anchor, traverse across to the true summit of the west tower of Smith Summit, and use another 2-bolt anchor to traverse back to the top of West Tower. Rappel the route west tower back to the ledge you started on.
From here, hike along the ridge to the right (NW) until reaching a saddle between Arrowpoint and the Platform. Choose to either climb to the top of Arrowpoint (5.6 X, 2 pitches) or the Platform from here (also 5.6 X, 2 pitches). Note: to claim this traverse, both towers need to be summited. Either downclimb or rappel each tower with a single 60m rope.
After summiting both Arrowpoint and the Platform, scramble down to the top of the Northeast Face (finish for Sky Ridge and Sky Dive). Collect your final tower selfie here. Get psyched; you just traversed the most iconic feature at Smith Rock!
Rappel as you would for Wherever I May Roam, Sky Ridge, or any other route finishing atop the Northeast Face of the Smith Rock Group.
Start as for Vulture Ridge (5.6 X) by approaching the back side of the southern tip area and follow the first gully on the right. Climb this gully to the ridge (2 pitches, 5.6 X).
Once on the ridge, use 4th class terrain management techniques (it's SUPER exposed on the right side of the ridge) to traverse up and down through the spires until you reach Vulture Gully. Once at a prominent spire within sight of Vulture Gully, rappel off a large horn to a dirty ledge approx. 2/3 of the way off the ground from upper Vulture Gully. **Note: Be extremely mindful from here on out about rockfall as anything you pull off may cascade into parties below you at the base of the Phoenix crags.**
Once on the ledge, traverse across the ledge until reaching the final gully that leads back up to the ridge (many options here, we went for the final gully on the ledge system). In this gully, climb a decent face to the right, then traverse left into a steep bulge move on horrendous rock (5.9+ X). When pulling this bulge, you will arrive atop Vulture Ridge again. 3rd class from here around the remainder of the ridge.
Reach the base of the west tower for Smith Summit by hiking around to the base. Follow the route West Tower (5.4 A1) to a 2-bolt anchor. Belaying from this 2-bolt anchor, traverse across to the true summit of the west tower of Smith Summit, and use another 2-bolt anchor to traverse back to the top of West Tower. Rappel the route west tower back to the ledge you started on.
From here, hike along the ridge to the right (NW) until reaching a saddle between Arrowpoint and the Platform. Choose to either climb to the top of Arrowpoint (5.6 X, 2 pitches) or the Platform from here (also 5.6 X, 2 pitches). Note: to claim this traverse, both towers need to be summited. Either downclimb or rappel each tower with a single 60m rope.
After summiting both Arrowpoint and the Platform, scramble down to the top of the Northeast Face (finish for Sky Ridge and Sky Dive). Collect your final tower selfie here. Get psyched; you just traversed the most iconic feature at Smith Rock!
Rappel as you would for Wherever I May Roam, Sky Ridge, or any other route finishing atop the Northeast Face of the Smith Rock Group.
Location
Hike along the riverside trail as you would to approach Asterix Pass. Once nearing Asterix Pass, stay low near the river on the main trail alongside the Crooked River. Continue hiking on this trail past the Phoenix Wall and the Southern Tip. Once approx. 0.25 miles beyond the Phoenix Buttress, find a faint trail leading uphill into the gullies behind the Southern Tip. Follow the path of least resistance to reach a rotten gully.
Protection
Single rack. Bolts on the A1 bolt ladder to reach the top of Smith Summit. No bolts on anything until reaching the West Tower. There may be a fixed rappel sling on the tower used to rappel onto the ledge in Vulture Gully, but will likely need replacing. Bring extra bulk webbing (I suggest about 5-10m) to sling whatever horns you need to rappel or bail should the route get the best of you. A 60m rope/tagline or half/twin ropes are recommended to make bailing easier. 2-bolt anchors atop Smith Summit and the Platform. I bolt and a block is used to rappel off Arrowpoint.
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