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Routes in Palmer Gulch

Keelhaul T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mr. November Too T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. October Also T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spicy Thai Tuna T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Yak Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Bein, Jim Black, Paul Muehl, Bob Archbold, Barb Devine, June 2nd 1980 (ground-up)
Page Views: 79 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

One of the top 5 five hardest spires in the Hills completed a year after the infamous Vertigo spire by mostly the same crew. Very rarely gets repeated, probably due to the hour+ hike it takes to reach. Certainly not harder than Vertigo but still has a short, wicked crux with some ride potential.

Once at the west side of this spire scramble to a ledge with a pine sapling and build a belay. Take large horizontal that slopes away from belay to the East. Clip old bolt then head up face to second old bolt on arete below the bulge. (I was able to place the smallest ball nut and a #3 RP to back up the 1/4" bolt). Commit to some terrible holds and don't look back! Exit on easier crack up left.

The Busse/Burr guide is not accurate on this climb. Especially the topo drawing, do not take that line!

Location

Located about two thirds the way up the West side of the Nelson Ridge, it's the unique shape that resembles half of a spade.

Protection

2- 1/4" threaded bolts
Single rack extra small to hands
2- 1/4" buttonhead bolt for anchor (recommend building)

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