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Doug Thompson gets the First Ascent

5.9, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 31 votes
FA: Doug Thompson, Abraham Lincoln, Steve Irwin
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Inner Walls > E Side > (c) Missing Bottle Bu…

Description

Start from the trail and begin just to the right of Happy Puppy. Fun 5.6 Jug Jumping, 5.9 face and crack (use the tree to chimney if you want) onto the ramp, followed by a 5.8 finger crack through a roof and short crux. Then scramble to the anchor shared with Happy Puppy.

Location

Missing Bottle Buttress (Trap Balls Buttress).

Protection

Trad pro to 3". A good selection of small/finger size cams for the cruxes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lots of fun, casual climbing on this lead.
[Hide Photo] Lots of fun, casual climbing on this lead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] Nice one Doug. And also great to have Mr. Lincoln get his revenge. Nov 8, 2017
RodrigoB
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun little climb. The crux felt a bit stiff at 5.8 but I probably botched the sequence since there are a lot of options. Mar 11, 2018
Matthew Trabun
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Great route, found the crux to be down low getting established into the finger crack. Another great additional to the MBB! Thanks Doug! May 23, 2018
Alex Peek
Seattle
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun Route! Cruxy stemming with some small gear at your waist and a ledge nearby Oct 5, 2018
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Fun line with interesting, thoughtful moves at the cruxes and a little spice thrown in for the grade.

Great addition to the crag, Doug Thompson! May 30, 2019
Serge S
Seattle, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The crux above the tree ledge has room for a 12mm (e.g. yellow x4) AND a 13mm (e.g. red c3) cam. A 13mm is nice because finding a good placement for the 12mm takes more searching than the stance allows (for a 5.9 leader), while the 13mm spot is obvious from below. These placements are 8-9' above the ledge, so with ~15m of rope out and a good belay, the ledge didn't feel too menacing. Aug 20, 2019
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Had to dig out the finger crack at the tree section. Was full of junk. Also, watch for slugs at the start! Jun 1, 2021