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Routes in Castle Lake

Hair Raiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
London Bridges T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prodigal Son T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straw, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thor's Unhappy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wife and 2 Kids T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: J. Taylor, B. Anderson, M. Deming - 1995
Page Views: 65 total · 6/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This somewhat inobvious line tackles an uninspiring corner system on standard Uintas blocky choss. Expect lichen, looseness, and the occasional cool move.
Start by scampering up a short vertical section to reach a wide grassy ledge (where I imagine you could belay if you wanted to pitch this thing out). Scramble up large stacked blocks to the base of a dihedral and tiptoe up to a roof, placing small gear on the outside of the wide crack and muttering obscenities about how lush the lichen is. Pull the roof and continue up the shallow dihedral aiming for the summit blocks. Look around for a while hoping to find fixed hardware. Give up, build a belay (multiple small pieces will work), bring up your second, walk off.

When I did the route this spring I wasn't even sure I was on the right line until I spotted 2 #11 BD nuts side by side under a large loose block. Looks like a very optimistic party belayed and maybe even rapped off them? Holler if you want your small boat anchors back.

Location

Walk past every good looking route at Castle Lake to reach this thing. The only distinctive feature from the guidebook is a small roof on the headwall (not to be confused with another roof landmark which can help locate Wife and 2 Kids, another pile).

Walk off to the West.

Protection

Single set from tiny to BD#3, nuts useful, runners mandatory. Be strategic with gear when you leave the grassy ledge or the rope drag monster will get you.
No fixed anchor, small placements abound at the top.

Photos

Sounds like my kind of route Nov 11, 2017

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