Type: Trad, Aid, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 404 total · 16/month
Shared By: Peter Blank on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the left side of the formation at the base of a short bombay that thins to offwidth and quickly rolls over to to a great ledge system. There are three pins for an anchor at the base of the second pitch crack.

Pitch two starts in a 4 or 5 sized crack with a few sections of #3 Camalots to a nice ledge. A body length or so of nutting with medium-sized offsets gets you to some free climbing. The rock deteriorates pretty badly towards the top, but the climbing is easy at this point.

We slung a blob on the summit for an anchor. A short rappel off the backside allows for a quick and easy walk back to the packs. There were a few old cams that a previous party used to rappel off previously, but the crack they were in seemed like a poor choice.

I believe ours to be at least the fourth ascent, given the eclectic gear that we came across - some of it now bootied. I don't know anything about previous history, but apparently there's a few other easily distracted climbers out there.

Location

From entering Rabbit Valley, there is a slick rock mesa with 4 or small mini-towerheads poking up. This tower is behind the heads near the backside of the formation. You can park at McDonald Creek parking area and hike downstream until the pour off. Head up the canyon on your left, and you'll bump right into it. It is maybe 45 minutes from the car? There are magnificent views of the river and the desolate wilderness from the top.

Protection

Doubles from #0.3-3, 1 x #4, 5, 6 Camalots, a few medium-sized stoppers, a Valley Giant 9 was used as well, and 15 feet of webbing for anchor. A .22 caliber rifle is also nice for hunting wascally wabbits. This rack is probably a slight overkill, except for the .22.

Photos