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Path of the Argonian
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 27
votes
Routes in The Pawn
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Direct South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Earth, Wind and Fire Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Easy Snow R |
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En Passant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hollow Flakes, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 PG13 |
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Kuiper Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Path of the Argonian T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rook, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wheeler Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13 |
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Zugzwang T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Brian & Jonathan Smoot in 2012 |
| Page Views: | 3,715 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1- Climb the low angled slab to a bulge. Belay just above this on a hidden ledge.
P2- Move up and right past a bulge to a hand crack formed by a flake. Move left at it's top to the fine mottled slab above, the creme brulee. Belay at a tree just up and right of the last bolt
P3-Traverse right past a roof. Slab up an arete to the highest bolt. Leap east across a crevasse like chimney to a small belay ledge! You can also down climb this if the "leapin lizards" jump seems too epic.
P4- Slab climb up and right, past bolts and chickenheads to the summit of Reptile Ridge.
Descend by rapping 35 off the North side. Hike/scrabmle 200' East along the exposed ridge to the top of the "Backside Route", and the end of the ridge. Rap from bolts 95' to the east. Scramble down and hike to the pass. Descend gully down the West side of the Pawn slabs. Descent is also described on the topo, only one 60M rope needed to get down.
Location
This route is located on Reptile Ridge, West Pawn area. From the lowest slabs of the Pawn, traverse west and down a bit following a trail to the Goldrush wall. Keep traversing, Do not head up the first gully you come to. (This is the steep descent gully for the Gold Rush Wall). Continue past this to where you can see Reptile ridge and sections of the route (the creme brulee). Continue a little further west to a cairn marking a smaller, less distinct gully. Scramble up this (a little bushwacking) first up the right side and then moving left to the upper left side of the gully. A fixed rope or two can be found here. several hundred feet higher is the start...a low angle slab. The approach takes about 30 minutes past the base of the Pawn. Although it's a long hike, you only need one rope and a light rack, since much of the route is bolted.
Photos
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