Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Zach Taylor
Page Views: 291 total · 16/month
Shared By: Unknown Unknown on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

start on the overhanging arete to the right of A Horse Named Mystery. No tricks with this route just few obvious holds up an overhang, but bad landing makes it quite committing. Start with left hand on bomber undercling and right on side pull. Then use pinches and crimps to work up the arête till you reach the same exit holds as A Horse Named Mystery then mantle up.

Location

Fraggle area in between A Horse Named Mystery and T.O.B.

Protection

At least two pads and spotter. Bad landing over a huge boulder

Photos

Zach Taylor 1
New York, NY
  V6 PG13
Zach Taylor 1   New York, NY
  V6 PG13
I climbed this today, possible FA? It's a super cool problem, great blend of hard and scary. I climbed it on the proposed start holds and then repeated it from lower holds, establishing on a juggy left hand undercling and a right hand sidepull before climbing into the pinch and quarter pad. I would definitely suggest starting from the lower holds.

As a northeast climber, I'm not too familiar with West Coast grades. I'd call this V6 but thought that it was 2-3 grades harder than Karmic Daydreams. If no one else has climbed it, I'm calling it Northeast Jungle Cat (V6), but am open to discussions about the grade. Dec 18, 2017
Unknown Unknown
Hell
 
Unknown Unknown   Hell
 
The SDS staring right hand broke. Doesn’t really add or take away from the climb in my opinion. Overall awesome test piece for the area! Mar 19, 2018
Zach Taylor 1
New York, NY
  V6 PG13
Zach Taylor 1   New York, NY
  V6 PG13
A clarification about the V6 grade I proposed: I didn't use the boulder to the left when I climbed it, as I considered it a separate boulder. My topout involved matching a crimp at the lip, cutting feet, and getting a high right foot close to my hands before pressing it out. It was both hard and awkward, which is why I didn't consider this a four star route. It seems subsequent repeats are using the boulder to the left, which probably makes the line a bit easier but significantly better movement. I'll have to repeat the line using the left boulder, but I think V5 with it on, V6 without it is reasonable. Dec 16, 2018
Matt K
Valencia, Santa Clarita, CA
Matt K   Valencia, Santa Clarita, CA
I haven't been able to check out this boulder yet but I'm confused what the exact difference between this route and A Horse Named Mystery is? Apr 12, 2019