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Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Ascent Into the Maelstrom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hollis Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 PG13
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Hypothetical Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keel Hauling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0-1
Stand and Deliver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Without A Net T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Earl Wiggins et al 1988
Page Views: 181 total · 16/month
Shared By: rkrum on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1 140ft: Start up the right facing corner on hands, pull through a small overhanging section into an awkward but secure wide pod. Delicately continue up the series of sometimes hollow and crumbly flakes, passing a drilled pin along the way. Continue up a pretty moderate lieback/fist crack to a second drilled angle backed up with a modern bolt. As the route is currently equipped, belaying here seems to be the logical thing to do, although it is unfortunately semi-hanging.

Alternatively, one can continue climbing past this second pin to the base of the roof. This is a much better stance (ledge) and likely how the pitch was originally climbed. However, to back up the lone drilled pin, which is bomber, one would have to carry a #5 all the way to the top of the pitch...

P2 60ft: Continue to climb up the short remaining 4" lieback crack on better rock to the base of the curious little roof. Puzzle it out from the comfort of the ledge, then climb the remaining clean OW corner to the top, where a final "surprise" awaits. Belay at another modern bolt, backed up with a yellow alien - .5 sized piece in the crack.

P3: Find the path of least resistance to the top. Up and left seemed to work pretty well for us.

Rappel from any of the established rap routes.

Location

About 100ft right of The Maelstrom, the obvious bombay chimney roof on the left side of the east face of the formation. Left of the wagon wheel feature that Without a Net climbs.

Protection

P1: Rack to #4 with 3-4 ea #1-2, 2-3 #3, and lots of slings.

P2: If belaying from drilled pin/modern bolt anchor, a #4 to get to the roof is nice. Otherwise, 2 #5 and 1 #6 protects the roof and OW above.

Photos

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rkrum
Here and there
  5.11
rkrum   Here and there
  5.11
This is a wild experience bottom to top.

In desert rock, this route is listed as 5.11 for the first pitch, A0 for the second. My partner and I both thought the crux of the entire route came up high on P1 - we had to do some interesting, sandy face moves below a series of stacked blocks. This pile of blocks now appears to be an easy hand traverse. I've left the difficulty as originally published for now, but would be curious to see what others think. Getting off the ground isn't a gimme, but this section up high was definitely the crux. It looks to be quite a bit easier now, but I haven't tried to climb it since.

The A0 P2 roof my partner and I both thought it wasn't all that bad as a free pitch.. it's an excellent free climb and nobody should be dissuaded by the A0 rating. Nov 4, 2017

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