Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Earl Wiggins et al 1988
Page Views: 701 total · 17/month
Shared By: rkrum on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1 140ft: Right facing corner on hands into an awkward but secure wide pod. Continue up the series of flakes and crack passing a drilled pin along the way. You will eventually arrive at a second drilled angle backed up with a modern bolt. As the route is currently equipped, belaying here seems to be the logical thing to do, although it is unfortunately semi-hanging.

Alternatively, one can continue climbing past this second pin to the base of the roof. This is a much better stance (ledge) and likely how the pitch was originally climbed. However, to back up the lone drilled pin, which is bomber, one would have to carry a #5 all the way to the top of the pitch...

P2 60ft: A really fun pitch. #5 c4 roof to clean offwidth corner above. Belay at another modern bolt, backed up with a yellow alien - .5 sized piece in the crack.

P3: Find the path of least resistance to the top. Up and left seemed to work pretty well for us.

Rappel from any of the established rap routes.

Location

About 100ft right of The Maelstrom, the obvious bombay chimney roof on the left side of the east face of the formation. Left of the wagon wheel feature that Without a Net climbs.

Protection

P1: Rack to #4 with 3-4 ea #1-2, 2-3 ea #3, and lots of slings.

P2: If belaying from drilled pin/modern bolt anchor, a #4 to get to the roof is nice. Otherwise, 2 #5 and 1 #6 protects the roof and OW above.

Photos