PRINT: Rock Climb We Expect You, Cochise Stronghold

We Expect You

5.9+, Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches,

Avg: 2.9 from 52 votes
FA: Scott Ayers, Mike Strassman, Dave Burke, Avi Steinburg
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > W Stronghold > Sheepshead Area… > Mt Chaktar

Description

Super fun route up the main slab on Mt. Chaktar. First two pitches have 5.9+ slab moves, and second two pitches are mostly easier 5.8 climbing.

Pitch 1:
Clip bolts to the left facing roof/corner, continuing up clipping bolts to a small stance, anchor. 5.9+ 14 bolts, 110'

Pitch 2:
Continue up the slab, clipping bolts, to an anchor 5.9+ 10 bolts, 110'

Pitch 3:
Short pitch... climb up to the roof, clipping bolts, following them to the right of the roof, ending at a nice ledge. 5.8, 5 bolts, 50'

Pitch 4:
Follow the bolt line directly above the anchor, up and left clipping bolts, eventually reaching a section of chickenheads, anchor lies above. 5.8+ 11 bolts, 160'

Descent:

1st Rap to P3 anchors on Ghosts of the Past
2nd Rap to P2 anchor on Ghosts of the Past
3rd Rap to P1 anchor on The Royal Scam
4th Rap to ground

Location

From the ledge, start just right of a grassy corner, just to the left of the start of Strassman Memorial Buttress. Under a left facing corner/roof.

Protection

Many bolts, 15 draws, optional single with pro to 2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of P1

Looking up pitch 3 from the anchor

Jose at the top of pitch three

Angel following pitch one

Jose nearing the anchor at the top of pitch one

Jose on pitch one

Stunning colors on the rappel

Looking down the pitch two slab

I've been expecting you, Galen.
<br>
Top of p2. Barely linked with p1 for a mega cochise slab pitch! 70m required for linkage. Awesome!

I've been expecting you, Galen. Top of p2. Barely linked with p1 for a mega cochise slab pitch! 70m required for linkage. Awesome!

Christian starting up pitch one

Pitch 4.

Pitch 3.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ

Thank you Tanya for such a great book that is opening up climbs that I hadn't explored before! Feb 12, 2018

Nick Niebuhr
CO

5.9

Slab lovers dream! I only used supplemental gear on the last pitch, and I think only a nut and a .4 Camalot. It's only run out when it's really easy. Mar 24, 2018

wwwcochiseclimbing com

Thanks arjunmh! I am rarely on here and it so funny to see my name on this website. I had such a great time climbing, exploring, getting scared, and then compiling it all. My goal was to do just what you said-get people on more great routes. Please let me know if you have any feedback on the routes and how I can make the books better please email me: cochiseclimbing.com. Hope you are enjoying the East Side book as much as the West. Jun 19, 2018

Justin Headley
Tucson

5.9

Fine route. Pretty straightforward hike, climb, and raps. Not much of a chance of getting lost on any of them. Better protected than many Cochise routes. First 2 pitches are fairly sustained 5.9 and the last two are 5.8ish. You can link 2 and 3, but the rope starts feeling pretty heavy towards the end. If you brought a "half-rack", maybe BD .4 to #2 cams and one double-length sling for a chickenhead, that'd probably be more than enough. We only used gear on the last pitch, which is also the easiest pitch. Mar 24, 2019

tom kaiser
Flagstaff

5.9

This climb is pretty much a modern multi pitch sport route with new bolting. we used a 70m (altho you can use just a single 60m)

it seems like you could link p1+2, but I think it makes more sense to link p2+3

Gear: 12-14 draws, 2-5 alpine draws

There is one slightly runout section on p4 about 15ft above a bolt , but you’re on juggy chicken heads . Definitely the easiest part of the climb (5.7/5.8ish climbing) . Optional to sling a chicken head or 2 Jan 18, 2021

Bob Crawford
tucson az

the first pitch is as hard as pitch three on "ghosts of the past" and easily as sustained. go get um sandman! 5.10 Mar 31, 2021

Dustin Wittmier

As compared to just a few other routes we have done here, this is a pretty casual outing. It is well-bolted and there is no need for a rack. Jan 11, 2024

Anna Brown
Albuquerque, NM

5.10a

MAINTENANCE UPDATE: On December 29, 2025, 5 old bolts were replaced with modern stainless hardware.. specifically, the left anchor bolt at the top of pitch one and 4 protection bolts on pitch 2. Donate to the ASCA to fund future hardware updates… safeclimbing.org Jan 19, 2026