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Routes in J Crags

Aguille Du Tangelo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bottle Tester, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Dread Naught T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeding the Rat - Part II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hunter, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Milwaukee's Best S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rabbits Trod. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Silver Lining T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sunshine Slab. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Velnio Akmuo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Connor O'Keefe, Milda StatkaitytÄ—
Page Views: 99 total · 8/month
Shared By: Connor O'Keefe on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route starts about 600yds past the Uneva Mine Trailhead at the top right of a point where the earth and the slab meet.

P1) Follow a thin crack to the top of the slab then go up and left to a nice seated belay. Natural anchors. 5.4

P2) Climb up the slab to your left for about 50ft of 5.4 then continue on class III terrain for another 150ft to find a natural belay in the vertical flake. Rope drag is a big issue here. If you were to carry a bolt kit and put them at the top of the first 50ft you could greatly reduce it.

P3) Go up and right for about 190 ft to find a natural belay. Move belay into shaded area below a white ribbon that descends down the corner of the feature to your right. There are many small to large pockets on this section which add a cool feature to the already stunning rock formations.

P4) Go up the white ribbon for 200 ft to find a natural belay with you sitting in one of the pockets. This pitch and the next are the two hardest pitches with 5.6 climbing and no pro until you reach the belays. The rock is here is excellent though and you should feel confident on it. This all makes for very fun climbing.

P5) Continue up the white slab for another 180 ft to a nice seated belay on top of the formation. Move the belay to the right about 40 ft.

P6) Climb the left facing slab up and over and belay from just in front of the gap in the slab. Move the belay up and through the gap and descend 6ft to the base of the east facing slab.

P7) Easy 5th class for a bout 200ft to the summit carin.

Decent) Desend the same way you would Dread Naught (Descend Sunshine slab... 4th class from the summit for several hundred feet to the southern edge of the slab and look out for double rap anchors when the slab becomes steep. Four raps to the groung. The last rap is from slings around a block.)

Location

From the Uneva Mine Trailhead walk 15 min South to the end of the Brown flake protruding from the ground. Head up to the base of the slab on the right side of the earthen hump that forms a triangle at the base of the slab. Here you will find a thin crack indicating the start of the route.

Protection

Minimal pro. Only 5 pieces were placed during the climb. A bolt kit would go a long way here but the rock is good and the climbing easy

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Good one glad you had fun .. It's not easy finding pro or belays without bolts. Nov 8, 2017

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