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Routes in North Fork of Taylor

Deerslayer, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moped Man T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pain Chamber T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Solstice of Change T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tucupit occidentalis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
West Face of Tucapit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown. FFA: Brandon Gottung and Xinwu Liu?
Page Views: 202 total · 44/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Moped Man is the right of the two twin corners on the north flank of the Tucupit subpeak. This route would easily be three stars if it was cleaner, but in its present state, it is a good, yet short Zion adventure with engaging climbing on interesting rock. Expect crispy edges, dirt and lichen. All-in-all this is fun Kolob route that has fallen into complete obscurity since the FA that could benefit from some traffic.

P1: 25m. 5.10+. Start in the flare at the base of the corner. Fun moves with dubious protection to a good ledge stance below the seamed out corner. Arrange some thin protection and decipher the mental crux of the route. Continue up the clean corner through the roof to a two-bolt belay at a stance in the wide pod.

P2: 32m. 5.10. Squirm up the slot to the crisp tight hand crack that pinches down to tight fingers before opening up into a flaring squeeze chimney and topping out the corner at a two-bolt belay on a nice ledge with a commanding view of the Tucupit's West Face and Horse Ranch Mountain.


See approach info for T.occidentalis. Wander up the slabs to the base of the route.

A double rope rappel from the top gets down past the sketchy slab move that accesses the climb.


We used a double set from purple metolius to #3 camalot with a single #4 and #5. Small stoppers and offset cams (green/yellow and yellow/red alien) were important to protect the start.

Two ropes get you down in a single rap, but a single 70 would work, just be sure to bring tat to equip the anchor above P1.



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