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Snowball's Chance
5.12d,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Evan Wisheropp
California
> Northwest Calif…
> Land Of The Lost
> Three Amigos Wall
Description
This is the wildly frustrating, yet rewarding dihedral left of Loser's Club. Climb up to a rightward traverse on a ramp leading towards two or three moves shared with Loser's Club. After clipping the fourth bolt, decipher a frustratingly technical traverse left under the arete. The crux sequence took me an inordinate amount of time to figure out, and would be a very impressive onsight! Continue up the technical dihedral with a second crux just before the fifth bolt that requires a tenuous deadpoint or a one armed dyno with your bolt down below your feet. Biffing the throw would result in a WILD fall out into space (get your cameras ready!)
*Don't clip any bolts on Loser's Club, unless you plan on back cleaning them! Leaving any bolts clipped on Loser's Club would cause your rope to shred over the arete. Also, top roping through the crux with directionals is a little weird. Its best to clip the top three bolts with slings if you plan on top roping.*
Location
Look for the only painted bolts on the wall.
Protection
6 bolts. I like to clip the even number bolts with 12" draws.
![Bolts 2-4 on Snowball's Chance. The crux comes while moving left from the Loser's Club dihedral into the left dihedral. The draws give a small taste of how steep this line actually is.
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The final sequence was so tricky, I tested perhaps the 20th sequences before I settled on one that would be repeatable. I imagine someone stronger could muscle through it, but that sounds heinous.]()
[Hide Photo] Bolts 2-4 on Snowball's Chance. The crux comes while moving left from the Loser's Club dihedral into the left dihedral. The draws give a small taste of how steep this line actually is. The fin…
![Snowball's Chance is the leftward dihedral. After the first bolt, a fun rightward traverse temporarily meets up with Loser's Club for three moves before heading left underneath the sharp arete.]()
[Hide Photo] Snowball's Chance is the leftward dihedral. After the first bolt, a fun rightward traverse temporarily meets up with Loser's Club for three moves before heading left underneath the sharp arete.
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