Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 81 total · 6/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the wildly frustrating, yet rewarding dihedral left of Loser's Club. Climb up to a rightward traverse on a ramp leading towards two or three moves shared with Loser's Club. After clipping the fourth bolt, decipher a frustratingly technical traverse left under the arete. The crux sequence took me an inordinate amount of time to figure out, and would be a very impressive onsight! Continue up the technical dihedral with a second crux just before the fifth bolt that requires a tenuous deadpoint or a one armed dyno with your bolt down below your feet. Biffing the throw would result in a WILD fall out into space (get your cameras ready!)

*Don't clip any bolts on Loser's Club, unless you plan on back cleaning them! Leaving any bolts clipped on Loser's Club would cause your rope to shred over the arete. Also, top roping through the crux with directionals is a little weird. Its best to clip the top three bolts with slings if you plan on top roping.*

Location

Look for the only painted bolts on the wall.

Protection

6 bolts. I like to clip the even number bolts with 12" draws.

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.12d
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12d
This might be a sandbag... let me know. Jul 17, 2018