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Shortoff Spire

5.8, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Thomas Kelley, Mark Owen (1993)
N Carolina > Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mountain
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details


This is Shortoff's mini-version of Sitting Bear - a cool summit that makes up for a mediocre climb. Excellent views up the gorge.

This climbs up the outside face of the spire to an obvious crack splitting the vertical face of the capstone. The crack can be approached by traversing in from either side of the spire or bushwhacking around to the bottom of the slabby face (see picture). None of the options particularly stands out. Eyeball it and pick your poison. The crack is fun, but short, and provides excellent protection.

There is a single, old bolt on top from the first ascent with a bunch of tat. Another option to explore would be the stainless three nut anchor that is above Desp-arete. If some moron hasn't taken it, that is.


Far, far north end of the cliff line. It is clearly visible from the Paradise Buttress area, maybe a two minute 'shwack from there depending on the time of year.


Standard Shortoff rack

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Hal Hammond below the headwall crack. 1997
[Hide Photo] Hal Hammond below the headwall crack. 1997
I think I see a line...
[Hide Photo] I think I see a line...