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Routes in (4) Main Wall

Ant Abuse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Catharsis P1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dutch Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Dutch Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Spank Mode S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kill the Hate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost in the Delta Neighborhood T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mixing It Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pillow Talk S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primary Gobbler T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rising Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott Free S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scotty Hits the Warp Drive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisters of the Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subway to Venus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sultans of Swing T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Superstrings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard, John Jackson
Page Views: 250 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jason George on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

Short diagonal finger crack leads to easier climbing into a dihedral. Follow the dihedral up till you reach an overhung section. Pull through this crux to finish it off.

Location

To the right of Pillow Talk and to the left of Time to Kill

Protection

Gear can be tricky to place and a bit sparse. Pro to 2"

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10a PG13
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10a PG13
the PG13 comes from a short (10'-15') section in the middle above the ledge with the anchor. The climbing is at most 5.9 here, but a fall would drop you onto the ledge. If you bring micro nuts, you can sink in a decent placement in the runout, but it's a little uncertain if it would actually hold.
However, its a great route, and if you are comfortable with 5.10- trad, its worth a go! Nov 1, 2017
Matt Pennock
Portland, OR
Matt Pennock   Portland, OR
maybe add a bolt there, so more people could climb it safely? Nov 10, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10- PG13
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10- PG13
I found a solid 0.5 BD cam fit nicely in a crack to the left just before the run-out. I did not see anywhere to place a nut of any kind. My pro below this was a runner on the anchor for Pillow Talk. The rightward traverse is not hard, though from the low anchor the route definitely gets your attention. With the cam in, I would have taken a swinging fall from the traverse, but probably wouldn't have hit the ledge. Before going into the overhang, you'll probably want to extend your pro to the right. The upper bit is super fun, though a bit pumpy. Aug 26, 2018
Bob Graham
Portland, OR
 
Bob Graham   Portland, OR
 
9/9/18 there are wasps at the last roof crux section I down climbed as they were getting aggressive and starting to attack. Sep 10, 2018 · Temporary Report

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