Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard, John Jackson
Page Views: 275 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason George on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

Short diagonal finger crack leads to easier climbing into a dihedral. Follow the dihedral up till you reach an overhung section. Pull through this crux to finish it off.

Location

To the right of Pillow Talk and to the left of Time to Kill

Protection

Gear can be tricky to place and a bit sparse. Pro to 2"

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10a PG13
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10a PG13
the PG13 comes from a short (10'-15') section in the middle above the ledge with the anchor. The climbing is at most 5.9 here, but a fall would drop you onto the ledge. If you bring micro nuts, you can sink in a decent placement in the runout, but it's a little uncertain if it would actually hold.
However, its a great route, and if you are comfortable with 5.10- trad, its worth a go! Nov 1, 2017
Matt Pennock
Portland, OR
Matt Pennock   Portland, OR
maybe add a bolt there, so more people could climb it safely? Nov 10, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10- PG13
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10- PG13
I found a solid 0.5 BD cam fit nicely in a crack to the left just before the run-out. I did not see anywhere to place a nut of any kind. My pro below this was a runner on the anchor for Pillow Talk. The rightward traverse is not hard, though from the low anchor the route definitely gets your attention. With the cam in, I would have taken a swinging fall from the traverse, but probably wouldn't have hit the ledge. Before going into the overhang, you'll probably want to extend your pro to the right. The upper bit is super fun, though a bit pumpy. Aug 26, 2018