PRINT: Rock Climb Superstrings, Portland & The Gorge

Superstrings

5.10c, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 46 votes
FA: Wallace & McGown, 1/89
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > (4) Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.

Description

This is a stout sport route that takes you into some good crimping territory and a sweet 100% pure bouldering move in the middle. That's the crux, but the route doesn't let up just yet.

Location

Immediately right of Catharsis

Protection

Four bolts and an anchor with mussy hooks for easy lowering.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Superstrings shown with upper variation included

Superstrings. Rope shown is on the Superstrings anchor. Marked anchor is for Catharsis

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC

5.10c

the actual sustained climbing on this route isn't all that long, but its enough fun that its well worth climbing. Nov 1, 2017

PortlandRob

5.10c

We debated what was 'on route' here. Judging by the climbing difficulty and individual tick comments, it seems the concesus is that stepping left after the 'bouldery move' near the second bolt, then heading up the easy-ish arete pillar 10 feet left of the bolt line before stepping right again at the third bolt is on-route and makes for a 10c climb. Alternatively, staying in the direct bolt line is much harder - maybe 11a? This was our interpretation of the grade and route, but would be interested to hear from someone who can confirm or correct us.
Also, it'd be nice if there was a 5th bolt that allowed for a direct finish to the higher anchor that stays in line with the rest of the route (though I found it to be protectable a #0.75 and #0.2 cam). Sep 5, 2020