PRINT: Rock Climb Catharsis P1, Portland & The Gorge

Catharsis P1

5.9+, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 67 votes
FA: Chuck Buzzard & Curt Cornick, 8/88 (full)
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > (4) Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.

Description

First pitch of Catharsis. Follow bolts up the slightly overhanging prow towards the high first bolt. Climb over large edges to a stance below the overhang and clip. Use cracks and jugs to mount the face, then continue reaching and pulling to the anchor ledge. This anchor is shared with the first pitch of Aerial Display (5.8) and Superstrings (10c).

You can step out right to another anchor and continue up Mixin' It Up (10b) or go for the full Catharsis experience (11+).

Location

Top of the "North" trail, immediately an arete immediately to your left. Of the two adjacent bolt lines, it's the one on the left.

Protection

Four bolts, anchors with mussy hooks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Catharsis - from afar. Anchor shown is for Superstrings. The Catharsis anchor is 4 feet left of this.

Catharsis - Pitch 2. This view from the Superstring chain anchors

Catharsis up close

Looking at Catharsis from the ground

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC

5.10a

You can either stop at the first anchor you get to, or continue up and right to another anchor. For the 2nd pitch of Catharsis, from the 2nd anchor, you have a couple options.
1. Mixing It Up: Head up the hand crack up and left onto the finishing slab. Not all that interesting. Gear to 3". 5.10b.
2. Catharsis (2nd Pitch): Head straight up off the ledge into cruxy, bolt protected climbing until you can head left up a seam with small gear. 5.11d. Nov 1, 2017

d sowerby

The second pitch: It has bolts to start with but it's gear up the left-leaning crack. Well spaced and not obvious gear! I thought it was at least a PG. Probably 'only' .11c - but you had better be solid at on-sighting that grade. I also led the crack to the right and called it "True Catharsis". Jan 7, 2020