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The Road Warrior
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British C1-
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Routes in Road Warrior Wall
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Beyond Thunderdome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mad Max T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Road Warrior, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1- |
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Toecutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid |
| FA: | unknown, aid. Has not gone free. |
| Page Views: | 569 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ky Dame! on Nov 5, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
A burly crack climb that features dead horizontal off-width and fist crack climbing for two body lengths. It is a reasonable clean aid climb on rainy days.
Grade is unknown, probably 5.11c to 5.12+.
Climb up dirty blocks (5.9) to a small ledge under the obvious roof crack. Clip a bolt, place a 4” cam as far as possible out the crack, and gun through overhanging fist jams for the top. Pull around the roof (crux), clip an old aid anchor, and cruise easier terrain to the tree belay.
If you don’t make it, the best retreat is to aid back down to the bolt and rappel.
Beta from Kurt Hicks
Grade is unknown, probably 5.11c to 5.12+.
Climb up dirty blocks (5.9) to a small ledge under the obvious roof crack. Clip a bolt, place a 4” cam as far as possible out the crack, and gun through overhanging fist jams for the top. Pull around the roof (crux), clip an old aid anchor, and cruise easier terrain to the tree belay.
If you don’t make it, the best retreat is to aid back down to the bolt and rappel.
Beta from Kurt Hicks
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