Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 85 ft|
|Page Views:||50 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||RyanSender on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionWyld Stallynz is a bold sport route. It was bolted with the intent of not being a bolt ladder but is protected where it needs to be. It has 12 bolts in total. There are a few crack where gear could be placed if desired.
Start just left of the overhanging rock and left of the gully. Climb easy 3rd Class rock for about 10 feet to the first bolt. Follow the face to the left-facing dihedral that leads to the roof (5.8ish).
Clip the roof bolt, with a huge jug just overhead. There are lots of feet on the left face to stem. Pull the roof up to a nice ledge and clip the next bolt (5.9). From the ledge, step out onto the face over the overhang, and enjoy the exposure. Follow the bolts up and left to another great ledge (you can protect with gear) to a thing hand seam the trends up and left (you can protect the seam with small gear), 5.8+.
Follow the seam up and left to a no hands with thin feet. Clip and rest, 5.9- 5.9+. This is the start of the crux.
Step up to a small foot, and clip the next bolt (scary), and work up the seam. There is a small sloper/crimp to the left of the clip that can be used as a sidepull. The feet are small and delicate with minimal hands. Pull up and onto the slab, heading straight up the the ledge, with a bolt and a great rest spot (5.11a/b?).
From the ledge, you have two more bolts (about 15 feet) and climbing at 5.7+ to two ring bolt anchors. Enjoy the victory and scenery.
LocationThis is the first climb on this side of the overhang, 15 feet to the right of Don't Mess With the Reaper.
Lower or rappel off the anchors.