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Trad, 130 ft,
Avg: 3.5 from 2
FA: Alex Finger
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock
> 11-Juniper Canyon
> Jungle Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Start in a seam and climb 20 feet to thin ledge. Easily traverse left to the chocolate offset corner. (Or climb directly up from below the offset with spaced pro.) Plug .4 in a horizontal and make your way up the offset, and then slightly left. Pull over a bulge and into some white rock and stem your way up to a nice stance below a large bulge at maybe 75'.
From here traverse slightly left on the varnished ledge, and then climb up on bomber jugs, following the crack for protection. Things thin out, but the rock quality does not. Spaced out crimps, huecos and jams get you to the top, for an excellent stance and trucker anchor.
Raps with an 80m.
Just below and left of the big arch. The chocolate offset corner is a nice feature to look for.
Singles to 3, double .2-.5. Lots of nuts. Keep your head on a swivel near the top.