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Routes in 8-Dostie

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 25 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sustained slab moves in first section, then some fun 3-dimensional sequences above.

. . Still lots of loose rock on upper half.

Up the face (without many positive holds), trending a bit left to 1-ft-thick tooth aimed up right. Get up that, then step around Right onto ramp. Up to top of ramp, then straight to the top.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

On the central apron of the left slab, just left of short non-steep narrow dirty gully.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or intermediate bolts for leading yet as of 2017.

Top-Roping: Might need static line to get to tree or rock horn without so much risk of disturbing and dropping loose rocks.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

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