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Routes in Middle Section

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Candyland T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
GBU Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Good Action S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hump Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Said and Done T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FA David Lovejoy, Jack Huack, Marty Woerner 1971, FFA Jim Waugh, John Ficker 1981
Page Views: 263 total · 24/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

P1: Grainy cracks lead past a bush to a ledge (5.9)
P2: Move left and then up over overhang through the dike (pitons lead the way), to the base of the thin crack. Climb this crack to the big Sorcerer ledge. Belay off large slung horn. (5.10b)
P3: The money pitch, and one of the raddest on the Mountain.
Climb the steep and beautiful streaked right-facing corner to a sling belay (fixed stoppers & bong). If continuing to the top, continue out right to a better belay stance on a small ledge. Long pitch. (5.11d)
P4: Climb the hand crack/wide flake. Continue up cracks/corner to the base of the final Kingpin dihedral (5.10-).
P5: Climb the final pitch of Kingpin to the top (5.8)

a stellar GM route with lots of character. The beginning of the crux pitch seeps. 

Location

The Obvious right facing corner on the Main Face, with the black/blue/white/tan streaks at the base.

I prefer a different approach pitch to get to the Sorcerer ledge. The original start is a bit dirty at the moment.
I like to start at a short left-arching finger crack that is maybe 50 feet left of Kingpin. This leads to some runout face climbing on good patina holds to a ledge. Then walk left to a triangular overhang, and pull over this (be wary of loose blocks). Walk left and climb cracks up to the ledge, then belay from the sling horn. This variation isn't in the Cramer guide, but its probably 5.7 R.
Gunsmoke is another good option.

Enjoy!

Protection

Doubles to #2, plus a #3. Small and Medium stoppers. A few C3-sized pieces. Quickdraws/runners.

To descend back to the ledge from the fixed anchor, I’d recommend rappelling to the bolted anchor on Once Upon A Time (climbers right), and then doing one more rap to the ledge. (I’m not sure that a 70m would reach from the fixed anchor back to the ledge).
The rappel from the slung horn to the deck is 40m, and be wary of the rope-hungry horn when you pull your rope! The top of the crux pitch is spicy, but the piton is good.

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