Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FA David Lovejoy, Jack Huack, Marty Woerner 1971, FFA Jim Waugh, John Ficker 1981
Page Views: 330 total · 24/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

P1: Grainy cracks lead past a bush to a ledge (5.9)
P2: Move left and then up over overhang through the dike (pitons lead the way), to the base of the thin crack. Climb this crack to the big Sorcerer ledge. Belay off large slung horn. (5.10b)
P3: The money pitch, and one of the raddest on the Mountain.
Climb the steep and beautiful streaked right-facing corner to a sling belay (fixed stoppers & bong). If continuing to the top, continue out right to a better belay stance on a small ledge. Long pitch. (5.11d)
P4: Climb the hand crack/wide flake. Continue up cracks/corner to the base of the final Kingpin dihedral (5.10-).
P5: Climb the final pitch of Kingpin to the top (5.8)

a stellar GM route with lots of character. The beginning of the crux pitch seeps. 

Location

The Obvious right facing corner on the Main Face, with the black/blue/white/tan streaks at the base.

I prefer a different approach pitch to get to the Sorcerer ledge. The original start is a bit overgrown at the moment.
I like to start at a short left-arching finger crack that is maybe 50 feet left of Kingpin. This leads to some runout face climbing on good patina holds to a ledge. Then walk left to a triangular overhang, and pull over this (be wary of loose blocks). Walk left and climb cracks up to the ledge, then belay from the sling horn. This variation isn't in the Cramer guide, but its probably 5.7 R.
Gunsmoke is another good option.

Enjoy!

Protection

Doubles to #2, plus a #3. Small and Medium stoppers. A few C3-sized pieces. Quickdraws/runners.

To descend back to the ledge from the fixed anchor, I’d recommend rappelling to the bolted anchor on Once Upon A Time (climbers right), and then doing one more rap to the ledge. (I’m not sure that a 70m would reach from the fixed anchor back to the ledge).
The rappel from the slung horn to the deck is 40m, and be wary of the rope-hungry horn when you pull your rope! The top of the crux pitch is spicy, but the piton is good.

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