Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: FA David Lovejoy, Jack Huack, Marty Woerner 1971, FFA Jim Waugh, John Ficker 1981
Page Views: 1,119 total · 24/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details


P1: Grainy cracks lead past a bush to a ledge (5.9)
P2: Move left and then up over overhang through the dike (pitons lead the way), to the base of the thin crack. Climb this crack to the big Sorcerer ledge. Belay off large slung horn. (5.10b)
P3: The money pitch, and one of the raddest on the Mountain.
Climb the steep and beautiful streaked right-facing corner to a sling belay (fixed stoppers & bong). If continuing to the top, continue out right to a better belay stance on a small ledge. Long pitch. (5.11d)
P4: Climb the hand crack/wide flake. Continue up cracks/corner to the base of the final Kingpin dihedral (5.10-).
P5: Climb the final pitch of Kingpin to the top (5.8)

a stellar GM route with lots of character. The beginning of the crux pitch seeps. 


The Obvious right facing corner on the Main Face, with the black/blue/white/tan streaks at the base.

I prefer a different approach pitch to get to the Sorcerer ledge. The original start is a bit overgrown at the moment (though traffic would clean it up)

I like to start at a short left-arching finger crack that is maybe 50 feet left of Kingpin. This leads to some runout face climbing on good patina holds to a ledge. Then walk left to a triangular overhang, and pull over this (be wary of loose blocks). Walk left and climb cracks up to the ledge, then belay from the sling horn. This variation isn't in the Cramer guide, but its probably 5.7 R.

Gunsmoke is another good option.



Doubles to #2 plus a #3. Micro to large stoppers. A few c3-sizes pieces. Quickdraws/runners.

If you’re intending to stop after the crux pitch, bring an 80m rope. This will allow you to lower back to the ledge and then rappel off the slung horn to the deck (40m).
Be wary of the rope-hungry horn when you pull your rope!