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Routes in Midway Cliff

After the Bash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loaded for Bear T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 430 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Bealor, Royce Van Evera, Aug 10, 2017
Page Views: 41 total · 3/month
Shared By: Mark Bealor on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

P1 free climbs the former top rope route Static Cling, on naturally clean, perfect rock. The 3rd pitch ascends a high and narrow buttress of more naturally clean, black rock. All fixed hardware was placed free on the lead with a battery drill.
P1- 5.9+ PG (5.8R): Climb the slab past four bolts, not stepping into the corner crack. After the last bolt, make a long runout straight up the slab to lower angle terrain and flakes. Step left and climb through an overhang (this feature is mentioned as V1 of After the Bash). Good cams at this overhang. Then run it out over easy ground up and right to a belay at the base of a chimney (smallish oak backed up with black tri-cam). 160’
Variation- after the 4th bolt, step left to the flakes of the route Fearless Leader, then straight up to the alcove (avoids the run out of the regular route).

P2 5.6PG: A connector pitch. Climb the chimney, and step right when possible. Climb past a left facing flake/block, and up easy slab to a fixed anchor below a steeper black wall. 60’

P3 5.9+ PG: Hard and committing moves off the belay (consider having the belayer tie in long). Climb a thin crack (Aliens) and opposing shallow grooves to a stance. Run out over easy ground to where the angle steepens. Excellent slab climbing past two bolts leads to a left angling crack (medium cams, possible belay). Climb the crack and step right at it’s end to and easy friction finish. Belay from a cedar with a fixed anchor. 210’ (requires a 70M rope, belay in the crack if using 60 M)

Location

Start: Between Fearless Leader and Hangover Corner, at a clean brown slab.
Descent: Two rappels with two 60M ropes (watch your ends on the first rappel) leads to the big ledge at the top of Hangover Corner. Walk off skiers left and around to the start (easy, 5 minutes).

Protection

Gear- Aliens blue thru red, Camalots .5 thru 3, Red C3, Tri-Cams black & pink.

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