Type: Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches
FA: Tad Welch, Jamie Savage, Steve Jervis, Aug. 1981
Page Views: 847 total · 15/month
Shared By: Mark Bealor on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

P1-Excellent climbing up the wide crack and layback crack lead to an oak tree belay 70', 5.7G
P2- Climb easy slab and flakes w/ little gear (look up and left for some pro) to easier low 5th/4th terrain, heading up and left to a terrace. Go into an alcove at the upper right end of the terrace and a trad belay below a wild looking crack. 140', 5.5 PG/R
P3-Get ready for some improbable looking and awesome 5.7+ crack climbing! Creatively climb the crack (think jamming) leading onto a slab. Protect wisely to keep your rope from getting pinched in the crack.Climb the slab to a two bolt belay at a good stance. 50', 5.7+G
There are two options for P4:
Original finish: Up the easy corner above the belay. I have not done this, looks unappealing.
Finish via a new route Right Turn (FA Mark Bealor, Nicolai Michel, 2017). Climb up right from the belay on flakes and face holds (aliens, a little run out) to a stance at the base of a clean black slab. A stretch of sustained 5.8 slab past three bolts leads to a stance. Run out easily up to a short right facing corner (good medium cams). Step right at the top of the corner and follow a good low angle crack to a belay at a large cedar with a fixed cord. 150', 5.8+PG

Location

Start at at the obvious wide crack that becomes a shallow left facing crack up higher. This crack is just around the corner to the right from a narrow clean brown slab, and just to the right of the obvious low angle left facing Hangover Corner.
Descent:
Rappel w/ two 60M from cord on a larger cedar (watch your ends!)
Rappel w/ two 60M from bolt anchors to the tree ledge at the top of P1. Walk down easily skiers left to the base.

Protection

Standard trad rack to #4 Camalot. An extra 2 and 3 Camelot let you sew up P3. Aliens green through grey for variation P4

Photos