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Routes in via ferrata

VF del Gorbeillon S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Type: Sport, Aid
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5 total · 1/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Short approach to interesting Free climbing options.
  • Lots of interesting thoughtful "free" rock-climbing sequences in a variety of rock situations, including two sustained face sections around 5.9.
  • One of the very best VF routes for free rock-climbing.
  • total "real" climbing Length roughly around 165 meters / 540 feet.
  • abundant fixed Aid hardware, mostly in the form of rungs / stemples, also some loops of cable to grab.
  • Straightforward approach hike.
  • Nice descent route with cable protection / aid in the steeper parts.

Free rock-climbing: Lots in the 5.4-5.7 difficulty range, some in 5.8-5.10. I climbed all of it "free" except for two short overhanging sequences (one of those might go free around 5.11-12). I felt well Protected climbing "free", because of the over-abundance of fixed Aid, so I would clip at least one of the leashes of my VF kit to Aid hardward (usually a rung), while the other was clipped to the cable. Somehow the abundant Aid rungs did not much get in the way of my free climbing moves.

Some of the small face holds dirty or mossy: Recommend bring a nut-pick tool (or screwdriver?) to clean them. Might also want to wear rock shoes. I climbed it in my best and tightest approach shoes -- and the two sustained face sequences felt like some 5.10 -- but I'm guessing that if I'd been wearing rock shoes, would have felt less difficult.

Climbing: Follow the cable.
Top of climbing . (N45.8770 E7.6180) . (elev ~ 1785m).

Descent: Follow cable down steep NorthEast, then some hiking down, then another cable section down SouthWest, finally a long mostly-horizontal trail SW back to bottom start of VF cable.

Location

Bottom start of VF route at GPS latitude longitude approx (N45.8764 E7.6189) . (elevation approx 1640m)
. . W above town of Valtournenche in province of Aosta, a ways N of Torino, and S of the Matterhorn.

Parking - trailhead . (N45.8801 E7.6220) . (elev ~ 1530m)

Hiking approach: Follow good trail, at first up diagonal left, then a long horizontal traverse with some ups and downs. See signs for Via Ferrata, follow them up through talus, with some of it moved and arranged to form nice steps.
. . (effort about +120 vertical meters uphill over 0.6 km distance).

Protection

Well Protected (in case a climber actually falls), provided clip leashes of via ferrata kit to intermediate steel rungs and other hardware points, not to the steel cable only.

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