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The Great River Road

5.10c, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Thaddeus & Ashley Portz & Dave Hug September 2017
Illinois > Pere Marquette SP > A: Lily Wall

Description

P1: Begin on The Tallest Man and climb to the second bolt. Continue left clipping bolts as you continue to the Rapp Crack. Protect the crack with gear and work onto the traverse ledge of Dietsche Legacy Ladder. Continue up to the 4th bolt and then traverse left on good/large holds and continue to the anchor of Dan's Dihedral. Belay your party to you from this point.

P2: Climb left using the anchors of the Lucky Strike Pillar for protection. Continue by using all of the anchors from Hornbein's Wall until you reach the anchor of Great Green Chute. Belay your party to you from here.

P3: Climb left and protect the corner of Horbein's Wall with a cam. Continue protecting yourself by clipping the anchors of the Community Effort Wall. Stop on the ledge at the anchor of Feeding the Hungry for a comfortable belay and bring your party across.

P4: Due to a large precarious rock (the has potential to eventually fall) down-climb to the ground and walk left along the actual balcony of Ryan's Balcony. Build an anchor using the two bolts of 50 Shades of Grey to bring your partners across.

P5: From the above stated belay, continue left clipping bolts from Vista and The Father Gift to climb into the dihedral corner of Spicy Guacamole. Climb up the face and work left at bolt three onto RIver Night & Flashlights. Continue left protecting with the anchors and build a belay at the anchor of the Hespen Arete.

P6: Climb left protecting with the anchors of the routes on the Wall of Wild Things. Build an anchor on the anchor of Sleeping Indian. Bring your party across, and once together. Rappell off the anchor to the ground.

Location

Begin on The Tallest Man and refer to photos for directions

Protection

Standard rack of cams, quickdraws, and runners to extend/protect corners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ashley campusing through the corner on pitch one of The Great River Road.
[Hide Photo] Ashley campusing through the corner on pitch one of The Great River Road.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Reisner
Frederick, MD
[Hide Comment] But why? May 19, 2018
Dave Hug
Carbondale, IL
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Because it was there May 19, 2018
Ben May
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] I’m confused... 6 pitches or 6 different routes? Nov 22, 2018
Dave Hug
Carbondale, IL
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] 6 pitches. The description has it broken down to better explain the oath to climb. Nov 22, 2018
[Hide Comment] It is a traverse from the Lilly Wall all the way through the Wall of Wild Things. So you traverse through a lot of routes climbing up and down however is clever. We basically built an anchor when we had to go around a corner and rope drag would be bad. Obviously this is a weekday sort of venture since you end up crossing through so many routes. Strictly for fun. Oct 16, 2019