PRINT: Rock Climb C1, Santa Fe Area

C1

5.9 PG13, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: First Recorded Ascent (FRA): Chuck Calef
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Cockscomb Crag > Chicken Little Area

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Climb the straight up crack 5 feet right of Casada Noodle Soup. Pull through the bulge on good buckets. Tricky climbing where the wall steepens at the top. Crack is clean in good rock, though some pockets higher up may be sandy.

Location

C1 is the crack about 5 feet right of Casada Noodle Soup. The first ten feet climb a flared corner through a bulge. At the top of the crack you can move left easily to the anchor bolts of Casada.

Protection

Protection in the flared corner at the start is tricky; hint, good red camalot in a horizontal crack out left. Good small pro in crack above. Near the top you can place a purple camalot in a two handed pocket.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

C1 is the crack in center of photo. There is a bulge at about 10 feet and another at half height. The anchors of Casada Chicken Soup are visible on the face a few feet left of the top of the crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chuck Calef

5.9

I led this and three other cracks at Chicken Little on October 25, 2017. I don't claim these as first ascents but simply want to record and describe them. Having no cosmic names in mind and knowing these routes will not be popular I've simply named them C1 ... C4, where C means crack. If I do any cracks left of C1 they'll be given negative numbers. Oct 27, 2017