Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
FA: | Burdo |
Page Views: | 731 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Zachary Winters on Nov 7, 2017 |
Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
From the MVC:
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
The namesake of the wall is a two pitch (5.10/5.11) sport route with quite fun climbing on mostly good, but some questionable rock.
Pitch 1 shares the first bolt with "Bergermaster Baiter" and trends right, staying right of the darkest colored rock and moving through the left side of a large roof. There are anchors on top of the roof if just doing the first pitch. To access the second pitch, keep going another 30 feet. First up, then right to another anchor.
Pitch 2 follows the bolt line up through a weakness in the large roof high on the cliff. Just above the roof there's a single chain (presumably to make the clip easier), then two side by side bolts (odd). Clip the right one and climb the corner straight up.
Heads up for some loose rock throughout, but especially towards the top. Helmet recommended. Regardless, this route has some really fun steep climbing!
Descend in 2 rappels. There is a rap station just left of where you belayed atop P1. You have to swing in because of the overhang. If you have a 70m rope, you can use the rap station you passed near the end of P1. Knot your ends.
Pitch 1 shares the first bolt with "Bergermaster Baiter" and trends right, staying right of the darkest colored rock and moving through the left side of a large roof. There are anchors on top of the roof if just doing the first pitch. To access the second pitch, keep going another 30 feet. First up, then right to another anchor.
Pitch 2 follows the bolt line up through a weakness in the large roof high on the cliff. Just above the roof there's a single chain (presumably to make the clip easier), then two side by side bolts (odd). Clip the right one and climb the corner straight up.
Heads up for some loose rock throughout, but especially towards the top. Helmet recommended. Regardless, this route has some really fun steep climbing!
Descend in 2 rappels. There is a rap station just left of where you belayed atop P1. You have to swing in because of the overhang. If you have a 70m rope, you can use the rap station you passed near the end of P1. Knot your ends.
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