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Routes in Aquarium Wall
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Aquarium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Balsamic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guppies on Ritalin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minnows on Mescaline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Octopus Cave, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft, 10 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,232 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Both the Handren and the Supertopo guides make this route sound a lot harder and scarier than it is. In reality, it’s a great long moderate with good protection. However, both the approach and the exit off the top of the tower make for a full and adventurous day. It may be possible to combine some of the pitches with careful rope management.
P. 1: Climb the slot chimney to a great, huge flat ledge. 5.5,150’
P. 2: The original route apparently climbs a 5.9 flake that’s quite a bit to the right, then traverses back left, but it’s a lot more obvious to go straight up the slab, left on a ramp, and up a corner to a nice stance on a pedestal below a wide section. (This is the third pitch of Luna.) 5.6, 60’
P. 3: Both Handren and Supertopo describe the start of this pitch as unprotected 5.9, but the gear is quite good and the climbing is never above 5.8 (at most). Stem up the obvious wide section, placing the #6 when convenient, then continue up the crack. Step right when the crack gets brushy and climb the crack and corner system on the right, passing a bolt, to a bolted belay/rappel anchor at a good stance on the right. 5.8, 120’
P. 4: Continue up the right-leaning crack, then traverse right (there are a couple of opportunities) to a corner with a hand crack, and follow it to any of several possible belay stances. 5.6 or 5.7 depending on reach, 150’
P. 5: Climb up and traverse left around a bulge, then follow an easy right-leaning corner to a stance below an obvious offwidth section. 5.6, 60’
P. 6: Pass the short offwidth section by face climbing on the right (a #6 gives toprope protection), then continue up the crack on much more moderate climbing to a good stance. 5.7-5.8, 80’
P. 7: Traverse straight left on easy ledges (passing about 20’ above the top anchor of Luna), then climb the varnished face left of a big corner to a stance. 5.6, 80’
P. 8: More or less straight up, passing a short varnished headwall down low, on mostly easy white rock with limited protection opportunities. Near the top, a #.75 Camalot in a horizontal protects a short set of face moves; continue up to a good ledge at the base of a wide crack. 5.6-5.7, 210’
P. 9: Up the wide crack, then step left and go up easy ground through a wide notch. Continue up easy ground on the left side of the notch to the summit of the tower. 5.6, 200’ (It’s easy to split this pitch by belaying in the notch.)
P. 10: But wait, there’s more! Easy but poorly protected downclimbing leads to a step across to the main wall. 5.4, 60’. From here, 4th-class climbing leads to easy ground. Both Handren and Supertopo mention a fixed rappel to get down the downclimbing section, but we saw no sign of one.
P. 1: Climb the slot chimney to a great, huge flat ledge. 5.5,150’
P. 2: The original route apparently climbs a 5.9 flake that’s quite a bit to the right, then traverses back left, but it’s a lot more obvious to go straight up the slab, left on a ramp, and up a corner to a nice stance on a pedestal below a wide section. (This is the third pitch of Luna.) 5.6, 60’
P. 3: Both Handren and Supertopo describe the start of this pitch as unprotected 5.9, but the gear is quite good and the climbing is never above 5.8 (at most). Stem up the obvious wide section, placing the #6 when convenient, then continue up the crack. Step right when the crack gets brushy and climb the crack and corner system on the right, passing a bolt, to a bolted belay/rappel anchor at a good stance on the right. 5.8, 120’
P. 4: Continue up the right-leaning crack, then traverse right (there are a couple of opportunities) to a corner with a hand crack, and follow it to any of several possible belay stances. 5.6 or 5.7 depending on reach, 150’
P. 5: Climb up and traverse left around a bulge, then follow an easy right-leaning corner to a stance below an obvious offwidth section. 5.6, 60’
P. 6: Pass the short offwidth section by face climbing on the right (a #6 gives toprope protection), then continue up the crack on much more moderate climbing to a good stance. 5.7-5.8, 80’
P. 7: Traverse straight left on easy ledges (passing about 20’ above the top anchor of Luna), then climb the varnished face left of a big corner to a stance. 5.6, 80’
P. 8: More or less straight up, passing a short varnished headwall down low, on mostly easy white rock with limited protection opportunities. Near the top, a #.75 Camalot in a horizontal protects a short set of face moves; continue up to a good ledge at the base of a wide crack. 5.6-5.7, 210’
P. 9: Up the wide crack, then step left and go up easy ground through a wide notch. Continue up easy ground on the left side of the notch to the summit of the tower. 5.6, 200’ (It’s easy to split this pitch by belaying in the notch.)
P. 10: But wait, there’s more! Easy but poorly protected downclimbing leads to a step across to the main wall. 5.4, 60’. From here, 4th-class climbing leads to easy ground. Both Handren and Supertopo mention a fixed rappel to get down the downclimbing section, but we saw no sign of one.
Location
This route climbs crack systems on the north face of a prominent tower facing the Rose Tower; it’s highly visible from the approach. From the base of Olive Oil, head more or less straight left, passing a brushy spot, to the base of the wall. A very awkward and brushy step (some may prefer to rope up) leads to an alcove at the base of a slot chimney with a varnished right wall. It may be easier to approach via the lower pitches of Luna, but we didn’t test this theory.
The descent is non-trivial, and involves some easy but unprotected downclimbing off the top of the tower until one can step across to the main wall, followed by scrambling up to easy ground. A bit of slabby downclimbing gets you to the Jackrabbit Buttress walk-off, following cairns over to the Brownstone Wall descent trail.
The descent is non-trivial, and involves some easy but unprotected downclimbing off the top of the tower until one can step across to the main wall, followed by scrambling up to easy ground. A bit of slabby downclimbing gets you to the Jackrabbit Buttress walk-off, following cairns over to the Brownstone Wall descent trail.
Photos
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Sunnyvale, CA