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Routes in Joe's Rock

Broadway Joe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cool Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Five Nine Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's All Buckets TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's a Bargin TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Larry Joe Bird T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mother Superior TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nine to Five (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
No Bargin TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sister of Mercy TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokey Joe's Cafe TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 114 total · 10/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Climb the featured, steep face to the right of The Wave, which is the distinguishable 5.0 - 5.2 slab splitting the lower-left, overhanging cliff from the upper-right, taller cliff. Climb a short crack, and step right around a bulge to a comfortable ledge (at about 10'). Continue right or left of a small overhang/bulge. The right option is steeper with big jugs but less protection (i.e., ledge fall potential). The left side has slopers and more options for gear placement. Continue straight up the less-featured face (crimpy crux) with a single bolt to the chain anchors.


This ascends the steepest section between The Wave and 5.9 Crack. Look for the lone bolt on the upper face. This area of the cliff could use a good scrubbing.


Gear up to 2" with options for nut placements, or toprope it from chain anchors.


I haven't been to Joe's in a while, but this description sounds like the route "It's All Buckets" which has a poor description copied and pasted from another site. Oct 26, 2017

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