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Perched-Pillar Pile

5.9, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Happy Hour Crag
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

On Oct. 18, David Light led me up this arete, which lies between Malign and Nightcap.

Climb directly up the short wall to the blunt arete. Stay on, or close, to the arete for its entirety. Stay on the right side of the hollow, perched pillar. Above it, avoid the big indistinct, perched block, with a hard move barely to its right. A short, left-leaning crack above the top of the arete is the other crux. At the very top, place directionals, and protect the traverse right to the bolted anchor atop Nightcap. This is not a bad climb, but the big block is looser than it looks.

Location

This is the blunt, cracked arete between Malign and Nightcap. It is the obvious crack system left of Nightcap.

Protection

SR.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The perched pillar, which must weigh many tons, is going to come down before long. A lot of smaller, yet deadly chunks, will fall with it. Avoid this route and Malign! Read Shadrock’s September 2020 post about Malign, regarding the same pillar. Mar 30, 2021