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Long Live the Queen

V8, Boulder,  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Marlon Campos?
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Smugglers' Notc… > Top of the Notc… > Queen Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description

Formally known as The Queen Regent. Since this line turned out hard and super cool, we decided to give it a better name.

Start with a left hand just under the roof in a nice juggy slot and a right hand on an undercling and pull on with the spiky foot for The Queen Regent. First move go right hand to the bad square-shaped crimp. From here either deadpoint to the slopey crimp up left near the seam or bump left to the bottom of the seam and then bump up to the crimp. From here figure out how to get your left hand up to the end of the good part of the left seam and pinch it and link into the top of Queen Regent.

The holds suck and the link into Regent is fairly hard.  Originally had this posted as a V4-5...lol yeah its a lot harder than that.

Location

left side of the face

Protection

pads

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

eddysamson
  V8
[Hide Comment] Updating the description + grade because I tried pulling on this today and its harder than the one on the right Jun 12, 2018
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] Does this climb into the same finish as Queen Regnant? Jun 13, 2018
eddysamson
  V8
[Hide Comment] Yep Matt, same finish as far as I can tell. Regnant might be possible to go direct but its scary and a lot nicer to link in to the left Jun 13, 2018
eddysamson
  V8
[Hide Comment] After trying it while fresh today and still getting shut down completely, I'm updating the grade again. Not sure if this line has been climbed before. Its hard. Jun 22, 2018
eddysamson
  V8
[Hide Comment] It went down today, so I've given the description and grade hopefully its last update. Its way harder than I originally thought last year. Jun 29, 2018
eddysamson
  V8
[Hide Comment] Here's the video! youtu.be/68vrPOPwkl8 Jun 30, 2018
eddysamson
  V8
[Hide Comment] I sent it today. Felt all of V10 in 70+ degree weather but today in the 50s it felt a lot better. Jul 6, 2018
nadah
  V6-7
[Hide Comment] I climbed this in 2016, but topped it out straight up instead of bouncing out early to the left like the guy in the video. I thought it was about a V6/7. Aug 5, 2021