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Routes in Slippery Buttress
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Slip of the Arrow T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slippermen T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tongue and Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Undertone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,253 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route is in the second edition of Handren’s guide as a three-pitch 5.7, and indeed most of it is no harder than 5.6, but the short crux section getting past the bolt is distinctly harder.
Most of the climbing is high quality. However, the descent involves exposed traversing and downclimbing; we stayed roped until we were on the ground, and would do so again.
P. 1: Up the easy hand and finger crack to a ledge. Step up to a bolt in a blank, varnished right-facing corner. Up the corner and/or arete (5.9- crux) for about ten feet to easy face climbing; head more or less straight up to a finger crack, and follow it as far as your rope (or rope drag) allows. Gear anchor.160-200’ depending where you belay.
P. 2: Continue up the finger crack, which turns into a right-facing corner. Up this (stepping left onto the arete briefly) until the crack ends under a headwall. Step left into a right-facing corner, which leads to ledges. If rope drag permits, continue up left into a big alcove below a whitish arete and crack. 5.6, 200’
P. 3: Handren’s guide calls the start of this pitch a 5.7 unprotected arete, but it takes reasonable gear and feels no harder than 5.6 or so, though the rock quality warrants care. Climb the arete and the crack above until it ends, then traverse a long way left on an easy foot ledge until it’s possible to cross a short friction slab and belay at a rubble-strewn stance. 5.6,100’
P. 4: Traverse left, downclimbing a bit, to a stance at the top of a blank-looking low-angle corner. 5.2, 100’
P. 5: Downclimb the corner a bit, and keep traversing left and downclimbing to the gully. 5.2, 120’
Easy, though loose and occasionally brushy, scrambling leads down and eventually back skier’s left to the base of the slab.
Most of the climbing is high quality. However, the descent involves exposed traversing and downclimbing; we stayed roped until we were on the ground, and would do so again.
P. 1: Up the easy hand and finger crack to a ledge. Step up to a bolt in a blank, varnished right-facing corner. Up the corner and/or arete (5.9- crux) for about ten feet to easy face climbing; head more or less straight up to a finger crack, and follow it as far as your rope (or rope drag) allows. Gear anchor.160-200’ depending where you belay.
P. 2: Continue up the finger crack, which turns into a right-facing corner. Up this (stepping left onto the arete briefly) until the crack ends under a headwall. Step left into a right-facing corner, which leads to ledges. If rope drag permits, continue up left into a big alcove below a whitish arete and crack. 5.6, 200’
P. 3: Handren’s guide calls the start of this pitch a 5.7 unprotected arete, but it takes reasonable gear and feels no harder than 5.6 or so, though the rock quality warrants care. Climb the arete and the crack above until it ends, then traverse a long way left on an easy foot ledge until it’s possible to cross a short friction slab and belay at a rubble-strewn stance. 5.6,100’
P. 4: Traverse left, downclimbing a bit, to a stance at the top of a blank-looking low-angle corner. 5.2, 100’
P. 5: Downclimb the corner a bit, and keep traversing left and downclimbing to the gully. 5.2, 120’
Easy, though loose and occasionally brushy, scrambling leads down and eventually back skier’s left to the base of the slab.
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