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Routes in Acker Rock
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Black Magic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Eagle's Dare S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Kill Your Scene T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Living to See Another Day S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lunch Route S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Maltese Falcon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Orc Bypass T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Peregrine Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poodle Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Saddle Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sinister Footwear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strung-Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Studio Tan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sunrise Tower S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sunset Tower S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weenie with a Tan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wizard Tower S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 710 ft (215 m), 8 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | g orton & harold hall, Nov. 2005 |
| Page Views: | 5,271 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure - Jan 1st - July 1st
Details
Climbing is prohibited from January 1 until two weeks after young have fledged, usually July 1st.
Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources.
For more information Visit: fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/…
Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources.
For more information Visit: fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/…
Description
You will find a description on pages 60 and 61 in vol. 2 of the Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Umpqua, 2007, Mtn. 'N Air Books. Crux is on pitch 2(5.9+). Once you've made the "Terrible Traverse" (~30 ft 5.8) you are committed to finishing the final 2 pitches to the pinnacle's summit (5.6 - 5.8). 90% of the climb has fantastic airy exposure making this an Acker classic.
Descent: Rappel off summit chains down backside about 35 to the saddle ridge and belay anchors. From belay anchors scramble/climb to the tree to your right where you will find a crack (Class IV). Follow the crack out onto the upper face to your right to the first set of rappel chains you used to rappel into Eagle's Dare. Exit through the gap to your right.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo G page 61.
Descent: Rappel off summit chains down backside about 35 to the saddle ridge and belay anchors. From belay anchors scramble/climb to the tree to your right where you will find a crack (Class IV). Follow the crack out onto the upper face to your right to the first set of rappel chains you used to rappel into Eagle's Dare. Exit through the gap to your right.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo G page 61.
Location
from Lookout follow the ridge left (south) to first large gap in the ridge. Cross through the gap contouring approx. 30 ft where you will find rap rings. Make 8 100-ft raps to the base of the pinnacle on your right (looking out) where you will find bolts on the first pitch of Eagle's Dare. The is a 5.6- bolt line leading back up the ridge from the end of the 2nd rap. After this you are committed to finishing the rappels.
Protection
3/8" SS Fixe Double Expansion. Rappel Chains for rappel into back saddle with a short scramble or easy climb back to the original rap anchors on main ridge (can sling tree if needed).
PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.
PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.
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