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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Breaking Ben (A.K.A. Doppelganger) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Love Movement, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Nolan
Page Views: 379 total · 60/month
Shared By: Nolan Robertson on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb Face To Nowhere to 8 bolts leading up the dramatic arete!

This is the ultimate testpiece at East Animas, demanding an incredible amount of focus, technique, crimp strength, sloper strength, unwavering endurance, and razor precision.

Originally envisioned by Ben Griffin, he suggested I get on it, and I became maniacally obsessed with the single best pitch of climbing I have ever been on. After multiple seasons of efforts, I failed to send after several very good attempts and many one hangs. I moved to the Front Range for about a year after visiting Durango four times over the course of the year coming back to attempt to free this route. Other people in the climbing community believed it to be too height-dependent and modified the initial stopper/impossible crux with glued holds eliminating the original sequence that I used. After moving back to Durango, I put in five more days of effort to send the line in its current state, still one of the best sport climbing pitches I have ever done. I chose the name Doppleganger, because the original climb was slightly different; however, it is strikingly similar.

Location

Climb Face To Nowhere, then bust up and left climbing up the incredible arete.

Protection

Climbing Face To Nowhere, you can use a couple of small cams. As for the sport section, it is usually fixed with permadraws of some kind.

Photos

Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
Nice work! This beast was seriously a stout rig! I like the new name. Oct 21, 2017
RYAN NELSON
Golden
RYAN NELSON   Golden
Nolan, nice job on this line. I remember getting on this route about 15 years ago with Marcus Garcia. Probably one of the most striking sandstone lines that I have seen. Nice one! Mar 31, 2018

More About Breaking Ben (A.K.A. Doppelganger)

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