PRINT: Rock Climb Canopy Crack, Red Rocks

Canopy Crack

5.10a/b, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Jorge Jordan
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Ca… > Jungle Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Climb the double finger cracks off the ground (stay in the left one for better rock and more fun). Continue jamming up a multitude of sizes until climbing on top of a dusty ledge.

Climb the offwidth/chimney at the back of the ledge.Plug gear in the crack at the back of the imposing roof. The crack in the roof is tight, but there is a miraculous lip that allows you to layback across the face, and climb around the roof (Crux).

(5.9 pg-13 variation.) Instead of doing the roof moves, stem to the outside of the alcove, and climbers left onto the face.

Continue up the crack above to an anchor above and slightly left, shared with Jorge of the Jungle.

Location

First crack left of the evergreen at the base of Mowgli.

Protection

Doubles .2-2. Single to 4. The smallest c3, or perhaps some ballnuts, could be used to take the spice out of the roof, but won't be needed by stronger parties.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview

Crux roof. Red ball nut did the trick.

Breaking the long pitch into 2 just below the OW and roof.

Just above the short offwidth, V slot into the thin roof.

After the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jorge Jordan

Surprisingly enjoyable. Climbing the roof instead of around it was a fun couple moves. Oct 29, 2017