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Routes in El Tecolote

Quack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sand in My Sombrero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tecolote Sin Nombre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Josh Smith, Will Vining
Page Views: 49 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a fun and exciting climb but would need traffic to really clean up.

Pitch 1: Climb the Quack dihedral for about 20 feet and step right under the small red roof, aiming for the right leaning finger crack. Follow this crack to an excellent stance and belay on gear. Do not continue up and left but rather look for a small roof up and right. 90 feet, 10b.

Pitch 2: Climb up right towards a small roof about ten feet up (look for small gear under this roof). Bypass it via slot on the left and climb to the red face. Look for pockets for gear, including a large pocket for a #2 that protects the traverse to the right. Just before the right side of the face, look for an obvious tips crack. Aim for this (I went to the right side of the face, climbed above the face, then reached about 5 feet left to protect the step back into the tips crack). Follow the cleanest cracks up and left until the face terminates in a ledge system. Don’t get suckered right into the loose junk. 10c, 150feet, PG13.

P3: Climb to the top of the formation. ~120 feet, 5.5ish, loose.

Location

Location: Traverse in from the side to the base of the Quack dihedral (see Tecolote Sin Nombre for more info).

Protection

Rack: Doubles to #2

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