Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Josh Smith, Will Vining
Page Views: 361 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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This is a fun and exciting climb but would need traffic to really clean up.

Pitch 1: Climb the Quack dihedral for about 20 feet and step right under the small red roof, aiming for the right leaning finger crack. Follow this crack to an excellent stance and belay on gear. Do not continue up and left but rather look for a small roof up and right. 90 feet, 10b.

Pitch 2: Climb up right towards a small roof about ten feet up (look for small gear under this roof). Bypass it via slot on the left and climb to the red face. Look for pockets for gear, including a large pocket for a #2 that protects the traverse to the right. Just before the right side of the face, look for an obvious tips crack. Aim for this (I went to the right side of the face, climbed above the face, then reached about 5 feet left to protect the step back into the tips crack). Follow the cleanest cracks up and left until the face terminates in a ledge system. Don’t get suckered right into the loose junk. 10c, 150feet, PG13.

P3: Climb to the top of the formation. ~120 feet, 5.5ish, loose.


Location: Traverse in from the side to the base of the Quack dihedral (see Tecolote Sin Nombre for more info).


Rack: Doubles to #2


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