Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Josh Smith, Will Vining, George Perkins|
|Page Views:||578 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Smith on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Pitch 1: From the bottom of the large dihedral/chimney system at the base of the formation scramble up a loose 4th/low 5th class grassy gully towards a small tree about 60 feet up. A hand crack breaks right from the main dihedral just above and to the left of the tree and heads towards a bolt and three pins that lead you up the middle of the face. Thin face climbing and small gear in seams and horizontals get you to a ledge with a belay bolt. Save a red or green C3 size piece to back up the belay bolt. Keep your eyes peeled for small gear near the pitons. They are good but their main purpose is to keep you on the line. 160 feet, 5.11a.
Pitch 2: From the belay, head up and slightly left towards an obvious right leaning crack. Follow this crack up about 20 feet to a good ledge (the belay for Sand in My Sombrero). Step up and left towards the arête on large feet, then reach right to the thin cracks and climb about 20 feet to small ledge with two pins. This is about 15 feet below the 6 inch roof and at the left side of the red face. Belay here. 80 feet, 10c.
Pitch 2 alternate start (skips P1): walk in from the side (see beta photos) to the base of the Quack dihedral. Climb the Quack dihedral for about twenty feet. Step right under a small red roof, aiming for the obvious right leaning finger crack. Follow this crack, then keep towards the left side of the formation to a ledge belay with a knifeblade. 10c. 100 feet.
Pitch 3. Head straight up the thin seam towards a 6 inch roof. Pull the roof and climb the tips seam (small nuts/RPs/cams) for 60 more feet until the cracks widen and the difficulty eases. Stay to the left of the face and follow the hand cracks towards the obvious shallow alcove/roof at the skyline. Climb the hand/fist crack out the alcove or dodge the roof to the left to end on a big ledge. 160ft, 11b/c.
Pitch 4: scramble to the top (5.2). 100 feet.