Chase the Dragon

Some more comments on the route: I was surprised by what gear I used, and I carried way more than I needed. The essential pieces were really larger angles. I'd say two sets 3/8''-1'' would have been nice. Had to use some pin stacks because I didn't have larger angles. I did not use any thin pins- not a single beak or blade. Used on LA in a stack, and one more by itself. The 1/4" stud (1st move) is a bit high to reach, entwine two nuts to reach it. The guidebook says to bring capscrews and hangers, for drop in anchors with internal threads. I left capscrews on all the bolts, so all that's needed are rivet hangers, or you could unscrew them and put regular bolt hangers on. The anchor at the top of pitch 2 is two drop ins, one with a Leeper hanger and one with just a capscrew. From this anchor, it is a 30 m rap to the ground. The first two pitches are the real climbing, and you wouldn't miss much to rap from that point.

comments on grade: Originally given A3, but definitely not now. The bolts near the crack on the lower portion bring down the grade a lot. Depends too if there are capscrews present or you have to have enough reach to put in your own. Probably A1 with capscrews in place. Maybe A2-3 if you don't use the bolts at all. Oct 17, 2017

I soloed the first pitch of this route earlier this year and seemed to have a different experience. When were the bolts added for a solo anchor and for what purpose? I made anchor at the bottom of this with very little trickery, also I recall my first two pieces being a hook then a beak.. Oct 31, 2017