Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown to me-- does anyone else know?
Page Views: 199 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jonathan Croom on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Pitch 1 (15 m)- Aid crux. Start on 1/4" stud, moving up past several bolts, mostly without hangers, on a pinned out crack. Free climb over bulge and up to a bolt with hanger. Optional belay here, or link with pitch 2.

Pitch 2 (15 m)- Continue up crack, eventually free climbing. Be kind to the bird that lives halfway up this pitch in the horizontal crack; he's friendly. Loose and dirty ~5.7 free climbing gets you to a crappy two bolt anchor- one with no hanger, one with a rusted Leeper.

Pitches 3-4 (~60 m)- Traverse right on easy but loose terrain, past two old bolts with Leeper hangers. The rock improves the further you go. Keep traversing up and around to summit. There is one new glue in on the summit. A 60 m rope might not reach to it, so it might be best to belay at one of the old bolts mid traverse.

Location

Middle of the Ear, on the north side. Look for a bolt about 12' off the ground.

See Marty Karabin's guide for a map, and Phoenix Rock for a topo.

Protection

Rack

1 set Totems black-red
1 #2 C4
1-2 sets angles 3/8-3/4
a couple LA's
small-med nuts, reg and offset (I only placed two)
~6 rivet hangers (or 3/8 bolt hangers and a wrench)

Did not use:
hooks
beaks
blades

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2 Comments

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Jonathan Croom
  5.8 A2-3
Jonathan Croom  
  5.8 A2-3
Some more comments on the route: I was surprised by what gear I used, and I carried way more than I needed. The essential pieces were really larger angles. I'd say two sets 3/8''-1'' would have been nice. Had to use some pin stacks because I didn't have larger angles. I did not use any thin pins- not a single beak or blade. Used on LA in a stack, and one more by itself. The 1/4" stud (1st move) is a bit high to reach, entwine two nuts to reach it. The guidebook says to bring capscrews and hangers, for drop in anchors with internal threads. I left capscrews on all the bolts, so all that's needed are rivet hangers, or you could unscrew them and put regular bolt hangers on. The anchor at the top of pitch 2 is two drop ins, one with a Leeper hanger and one with just a capscrew. From this anchor, it is a 30 m rap to the ground. The first two pitches are the real climbing, and you wouldn't miss much to rap from that point.

comments on grade: Originally given A3, but definitely not now. The bolts near the crack on the lower portion bring down the grade a lot. Depends too if there are capscrews present or you have to have enough reach to put in your own. Probably A1 with capscrews in place. Maybe A2-3 if you don't use the bolts at all. Oct 17, 2017
Chase Bowman
Durango
Chase Bowman   Durango
I soloed the first pitch of this route earlier this year and seemed to have a different experience. When were the bolts added for a solo anchor and for what purpose? I made anchor at the bottom of this with very little trickery, also I recall my first two pieces being a hook then a beak.. Oct 31, 2017