Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 2
FA: Robert McGown, Jeff Thomas, 1977
> Southwest Cascades
> Beacon Rock
> S Face
Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure
The entire south face has been closed from Feb. 1st - July 15th for many years. We are working on getting this minimized, so please respect the process and DO NOT CLIMB HERE DURING THIS TIME!!! Climbers poaching the cliff during this time are usually caught and cited for trespassing.
Start up onto the boulder then clutch desperately to the edges in the twin cracks. Get your stem on early. Work it quickly up on good finger locks and occasional arete holds. Once you've reached the ledge at about 2/3 way up, you can cheat out for a rest, or commit to the left crack while slapping for hidden edges on the right. Tough climbing gives way to an easy top-out on huge jugs.
Haven't climbed the second pitch yet, but it's currently teeming with grass and grunge. Ends at the Right Gull anchor below the last pitch. Supposedly 10d.
First stem box route, double cracks left of bolted Old Warriors arete, which is left of Little Wing nook
Gear to 1.5", doubles in small cams