Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Cass Bindrup, Rollin Grimmet, Casey Elliot
Page Views: 445 total · 16/month
Shared By: Cass Bindrup on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Thin finger crack moves through an airy roof requiring considerable body-tension, a committing mantle above small gear, and final 5.10 fingers to thin hands in a flared chimney makes this crack totally classic. Comparable to coffin crack, but obviously much more involved of an approach. Good rock (It has cleaned up nicely) with bomber gear. Sharp as always.

Location

On the eastern face of the thumbnail, just north of the huge leaning block/slab (lightly seasoned). The clean crack in the hourglass-chimney is perfect and obvious.

Protection

(BD sizes) #1 for the beginning then a couple finger-size pieces, I believe a double zero protected the crux moves. Doubles in .5 to .75 for the end. Chain Anchor. Sharp edges on the arete. Not a top-rope candidate.

Photos