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Routes in 5. Vulnerability Corner

Boulder Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dude, Hold My Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Impregnability TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In All Probability TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One I Climbed, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sustainability TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vulnerability TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Matt Murphy + Jon Crefeld + Dave Barone 2015
Page Views: 38 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of thoughtful moves on non-large holds. With a unique balancy traverse -- likely fairly scary on lead, but worthwhile to try on top-rope.

Up to above the level of the roof. Next traverse left above the roof (crux). Then up a ways (2nd crux), and finish to the left.

. . (Of course it's easy (and safer?) to use the tree for the first crux,
. . . but doing it in balance without the tree is what makes this route special).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Location

Just right of the right end of the big roof.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

I have not led this, though I climbed roughly the lower two-thirds on top-rope.
. . So the protection rating is only my best guess based on reports from other people,
- > If you know better, please add a Comment below).

I didn't see good places in the lower two-thirds to place Trad protection - (might help to put a sling around the tree?)

Top-Rope: If use a static line from a tree anchor a ways back from the eidge of the cliff, can move the top of the rope sideways as the climber traverses. But likely this only works for at most the first two-thirds of the route (unless another non-climbing member of the party stationed along the top of cliff moves the top of the belay rope) -- so better stop and lower off before there's a danger of taking a big sideways swing if the climber falls.
. . (Anyway there's plenty of interesting climbing in that first part).

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Vulnerability Corner sector.

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