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The One I Climbed
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in 5. Vulnerability Corner
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Boulder Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dude, Hold My Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Impregnability TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In All Probability T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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One I Climbed, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sustainability T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vulnerability TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Matt Murphy + Jon Crefeld + Dave Barone 2015 |
| Page Views: | 631 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Lots of thoughtful moves on non-large holds. With a unique balancy traverse -- likely fairly scary on lead, but worthwhile to try on top-rope.
Up to above the level of the roof. Next traverse left above the roof (crux). Then up a ways (2nd crux), and finish to the left.
. . (Of course it's easy (and safer?) to use the tree for the first crux,
. . . but doing it in balance without the tree is what makes this route special).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
Up to above the level of the roof. Next traverse left above the roof (crux). Then up a ways (2nd crux), and finish to the left.
. . (Of course it's easy (and safer?) to use the tree for the first crux,
. . . but doing it in balance without the tree is what makes this route special).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
Protection
I have not led this, though I climbed roughly the lower two-thirds on top-rope.
. . So the protection rating is only my best guess based on reports from other people,
- > If you know better, please add a Comment below).
I didn't see good places in the lower two-thirds to place Trad protection - (might help to put a sling around the tree?)
Top-Rope: If use a static line from a tree anchor a ways back from the eidge of the cliff, can move the top of the rope sideways as the climber traverses. But likely this only works for at most the first two-thirds of the route (unless another non-climbing member of the party stationed along the top of cliff moves the top of the belay rope) -- so better stop and lower off before there's a danger of taking a big sideways swing if the climber falls.
. . (Anyway there's plenty of interesting climbing in that first part).
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Vulnerability Corner sector.
. . So the protection rating is only my best guess based on reports from other people,
- > If you know better, please add a Comment below).
I didn't see good places in the lower two-thirds to place Trad protection - (might help to put a sling around the tree?)
Top-Rope: If use a static line from a tree anchor a ways back from the eidge of the cliff, can move the top of the rope sideways as the climber traverses. But likely this only works for at most the first two-thirds of the route (unless another non-climbing member of the party stationed along the top of cliff moves the top of the belay rope) -- so better stop and lower off before there's a danger of taking a big sideways swing if the climber falls.
. . (Anyway there's plenty of interesting climbing in that first part).
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Vulnerability Corner sector.
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