Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Stéphane Perron (Fall, 2009)
Page Views: 231 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: SEPAQ daily fees and raptor closure. Details

Description

This is a steep route that ascends a continous crack system on the leftside of Cap Tinité. I would qualify the route as being pretty sustained and very delicate.

P1 (5.12a): Clip the bolt, face climb to a small roof and reestablish yourself above that. Now you can apparently climb the crack just up to your left (overgrown, mushy and wet) or face climb using a bolt to the right (hard). Either way, you are ending up climbing in the abyss to just underneath a nice fingercrack that leads to an offwidth. Battle your way up the offwidth until it ease and tappers to an handcrack. Reach the anchor on an exposed ledge. (100 ft)

P2 (5.12b): Climb the orange right facing corner to the roof with increasing difficulty using the thin and sometime flaring crack to the right. Watch for rotten rock as you get higher in the corner. Clip a manky piton just under the roof and traverse left to a even worst broken piton. Exit the roof and climb a detached overhanging block to a two-bolt anchor. (50 ft)

P3 (5.11d): Follow the steepening left facing corner throught a funny flaring chimney section that has a finger crack deeper inside it. There is a piton mid-pitch just above the chimney. Reestablish yourself underneath the roof to a nice stance. There is a load of rotten rock, I bailed from there. Climb a chimney/offwidth throught the roof to reach a two-bolt anchor. (50 ft)

P4 (5.11d/12a) & P5 (5.11d/12a): I haven't done them. I will had description later when I return.

Descent : Rappel the route with two (2) 50m ropes. Note that the belays only have standard bolt hangers and no rings or chain links.

Location

Starts to the right of the smallest of two (2) permanent black water stains, at a bolt.

Protection

Single from microcams to Camalot 5, doubles from 0.3 to 2, triples of 0.4. Bring regular and offset nuts.

Photos

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