Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Ryan Williams
Page Views: 312 total · 22/month
Shared By: RyanSender on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really fun route, offering great protection and a variety of movement. It really is a gem for this area.

The first 15 feet climbs the obvious face (5.5) to a slanted ledge (anther 10 or 15 feet). Work your way up to a small broken face crack system that will lead left into the main crack (5 easy) placing gear where desired. The crux of the climb is getting into the crack off the ledge (5.9).

Once in the crack and over the first bulge, work your way directly up the crack, enjoying hand jam after hand jam. Small ledges and nobs are on the face for helpful feet Climb the crack for another 50 feet until you get to a small ledge. Take in the surroundings, and enjoy the view.

From the ledge, mantel up and over another bulge (5.9 awkward) to a great stance. Climb the rest of the crack for about 15 feet, and the anchors await.

Location

Use the rings on the fixed anchor to rappel off.

Protection

A double set of Black Diamond #2 to 0.5 (or equivalent) cams, with a few medium stoppers, and quickdraws. There is a fixed chain ring anchor at the top.

Photos

Jared Fehr
Cloud City, CO
 
Jared Fehr   Cloud City, CO
 
Not sure about the 5.9 rating (seemed 5.8 at most), but the upper crack made this my favorite trad route at this crag. Aug 11, 2018