PRINT: Rock Climb Middle Arete, Powerlinez

Middle Arete

5.9, TR, 32 ft (10 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: TR Ken Roberts + Karel Hrbacek
New York > Powerlinez > d. Swamp > 3. Jumble n Tumble

Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

Lots of interesting outdoor moves. Very thoughtful crux, because need to alternate between looking and feeling.

Up the low arete to its top, then step left around the higher arete into a mini-dihedral (crux), then up that (more crux?) to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Location

Small sharp ridge / arete between the middle dihedral and the right dihedral of the set of dihedrals and aretes in the middle of this crag.

- - > see on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Jumble n Tumble sector.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jumble n Tumble - Right side:
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D. Left Crack
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E. Right Face of Left Dihedral
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G. Boxcar
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J. Middle Arete
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L. Convexation
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N. Right Crack
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. vN. variation Finish
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P. Right Face
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S. Right End

Jumble n Tumble - Right side: D. Left Crack E. Right Face of Left Dihedral G. Boxcar J. Middle Arete L. Convexation N. Right Crack . vN. variation Finish P. Right Face S. Right End