Type: Trad, 270 ft (82 m)
FA: Julian Kuettner, John Greer, August 2015
Page Views: 552 total · 10/month
Shared By: Brad Young on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on a northeast facing portion of Below the Fun House cliff. It is around and left from the three easy to find bolted face climbs located on a very easy to find, smooth, steep, clean, north-facing slab (these three bolted routes are listed next). Go to the lowest toe of rock at the left edge of the smooth, clean slab (left of the bolted route Not Pneumonia). From that point, move 30 more feet left/southeast (slightly uphill) to a triplet of hand-size cracks, which are each five feet apart (all three join together 35 feet up). Start climbing in the right crack. Continuous crack systems lead to a wide crack/corner, in black-stained rock 90 feet up (this intimidating section of crack is easy to see from the ground; also, it is not as hard to climb as it looks). The corner turns low angle after the wide crack. Finish the route’s first pitch at a large ledge 155 feet from its start (make a gear belay; also the two-bolt anchor shared by the bolted face climbs listed next is on the same ledge 20 feet right and around a corner). The second pitch starts on in a wide ramp/right-facing corner. This ends 40 feet up. Move up and left to another, not-as-wide ramp/right facing corner. Follow this second corner for 30 feet to its end. Continue up and left toward trees and a walk-off point 115 feet from the first pitch belay ledge.

Descend by walking up past The Fun House to The Burst Rock Trail and then back down and around to the base of the cliff.

Further notes: : Intentional spelling. Also, the name is a play on John Greer’s medical condition on the day he first did the climb. Although he hadn’t been feeling well for over a week, Greer came up from the Central Valley that day. He and Kuettner did the first ascent of this route and then drove home. After doing most of the drive, Greer felt so bad that he went to an emergency room. As it turned out, he had a collapsed lung and had been climbing and working in that condition for a week. Greer spent that night (and four more!) in the hospital. Finally, although the route is dirty in places it gets stars anyway because of its length and because it includes a significant amount of really fun climbing.

Protection

From ½ inch to a single four inch piece, with extra two and three inch and many runners.

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