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Routes in The Spire

Aerial Dogfight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cadence's Climb S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dog's Bone, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dog's Ear, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog's Nose, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Foxtrot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Swing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Return of the Fern, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tango S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Squeeze TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Where the Green Fern Grows S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Why Go Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Why Go Right S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Cadence Brown
Page Views: 87 total · 8/month
Shared By: Adam Brown on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Starting on the northwest corner of The Spire, work up the arete up and right. Pass a prominent bulge, using side pulls on the arete and feet on the overhanging face. About half way up find a terrific jug right on the edge of the arete. As the route becomes more overhanging, work up to a prominent gendarme on the arete and pull over the edge to the slabby face of the north side. Climb the last 15 feet to the anchors, shared with "Why Go Right."


The prominent arete on the northwest corner of The Spire


8 bolts and a shared two bolt anchor with rappel rings. Anchor shared with "Why Go Right"


Evan Wisheropp
Evan Wisheropp  
I remember climbing this a while ago on a tandem self belay and we both thought it was 10d. I remember forcing myself to stay until the gendarme where the arete leans right, but maybe I used some holds that are "out of bounds." I'll have to climb it now with the bolts to see if that makes the grade feel less forced Dec 16, 2017
Adam Brown  
Thanks Evan. Yes, def try it now with bolts and see what you think! Dec 17, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
Evan Wisheropp  
Ok, thanks for the go ahead, I saw the tag was still on it, but it sounds it's been sent and good to go. I used a rail on the left and deadpointed to the jug (awesome!), then ended up mantling soon after. That felt 10d. Afterwards I top roped it and stayed right the whole time without mantling until the last bolt. It was pretty fun, very contrived, but very cool moves. I used a figure-4 on the jug to statically reach the crimp rail (really cool). You have to again resist the temptation to mantle, and it was a few more cool moves to the top. I'd give that 5.12 for sure. Plenty of grade options for whatever you want. I'd give it three stars for a 10d, and one star for a 12. Dec 18, 2017
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
I'd call it 10+ with a possible 5.12 variation too. Dec 19, 2017
Adam Brown  
Sounds good Nick and Evan. Lets go with 5.10d. Dec 19, 2017

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