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Routes in The Mid West - Middle Wall

Batty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dudeist Priest S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fledgling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quetzalcoatl T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Tail T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Swiftly S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tooth Fairy, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turning of the Tide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrong Way Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 10/16/17
Page Views: 203 total · 32/month
Shared By: applewood on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Red Tail 5.9- *** (200') M(15b)
Begin 15' right of "Swiftly" (and 15' left of the big gully) and climb directly up to the 2 chain anchors on top. Can be done as one long pitch with a 60m rope straightened out with some long draws, but probably best done as two. Sustained, moderate, interesting climbing on mostly excellent rock with an exciting finish makes for a great adventure.
P1 - 5.9- *** (95') F(10b) - fun, sustained, reachy climbing to the 2 chain anchors with extra bolt at mid-face.
P2 - 5.7 *** (105') M(5b) - after an easy section above the 3 bolt semi-hanging belay over some hollow flakes head up and left through the left side of the roof. Several bolts help protect this mostly trad upper pitch (with a wide range of horizontal cam placements from tiny to large).

Location

On the tall wall just left of the large corner system that marks the right edge of The South End of the Mid West Wall.

Protection

Mixed - 15 bolts (green hangers) and several pieces of gear (#00 to #3 cams - with doubles of #2), 2 chain anchors at mid level and top.

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