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Routes in 11. Sea of Joy
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Cross Faded S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Fear the Reaper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sea of Joy S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sledge Hammer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under My Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Engle, Chris Barnes, & Vernon Phinney; June 2018 |
| Page Views: | 848 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Engle on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
P1(5.10-): Work up a ramp to a steep chert face with engaging chert knobs. Gain a small ledge and continue up another exciting steep chert face to chain anchors and a small stance.
P2(5.10): Step across a left leaning right facing corner. Move up a couple bolts and head up right to a very obvious 2 foot overlap feature. Pull the overlap on chert holds and continue on thin holds to the right side of a flake and make a couple burly lieback movest to bigger holds. Follow bigger holds to the next bolt. After the lieback, it is slightly runout to the next bolt but the climbing eases up and is on big holds. Climb some amazing chert holds to finish at the chain anchors just below the rim of the wall. Note: P2 shares two bolts with Cross Faded and Cross Faded takes the left bolt line through the overlap and Under My Thumb takes the right bolt line.
P2(5.10): Step across a left leaning right facing corner. Move up a couple bolts and head up right to a very obvious 2 foot overlap feature. Pull the overlap on chert holds and continue on thin holds to the right side of a flake and make a couple burly lieback movest to bigger holds. Follow bigger holds to the next bolt. After the lieback, it is slightly runout to the next bolt but the climbing eases up and is on big holds. Climb some amazing chert holds to finish at the chain anchors just below the rim of the wall. Note: P2 shares two bolts with Cross Faded and Cross Faded takes the left bolt line through the overlap and Under My Thumb takes the right bolt line.
Protection
P1: 12 bolts; P2: 8 bolts. Due to rope drag, it is strongly recommended to climb as two pitches. The top of the second pitch has chain anchors but to avoid an uncomfortable hanging belay, it is recommended to not lower back to the belay anchors at the top of P1 of Under My Thumb and instead the leader should lower to one of two chain anchors on the big comfortable party ledge (P1 anchors for either Cross Faded or Don't Fear the Reaper). The second can then clean the pitch, thread the anchors and lower to the party ledge. From there, it is a short rappel back to the alcove with a single rope. Note: It is possible to lower from the P1 anchors with a 60 meter rope - it just makes it. Knot the end of the rope on the belayers end.
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